Hello Fellow R/Ters,
This a very long post, don't get your panties in a wad!
Has anyone tried the Lakewood Traction bars and the Caltrac Traction
units (I think that is what they are called) Which one is better? I know
the latter cost much more than the Lakewoods. The reason I ask, I have a
set of the Lakewoods, they work great with a little modification!
Here's my mod:
Parts Needed:
Lakewood traction bars (any auto parts store, at most $39)
3/8 Lead anchor used to mount stuff in concrete
3/8 by 1/2 long bolt
3/8 washers than are 11/4 in diameter
of course you want all this in stainless steel.
Explaination:
Take that metal piece out of the anchor(lead part is not used), use it to
extend the reach of the snubber on the traction bar(s)
.
The traction bar has a 45 degree cut on it with 3 holes where you can mount
the snubber, use the last hole. Take that 3/8 by 1/2 long bolt, slide washer
on, then insert it up from the bottom of the traction bar,slide another
washer on the threads that are now protruding up, take the metal part from
the 3/8 lead anchor and screw it on to the rest of the bolt, now just take
the snubber and screw it into the metal part from the anchor, that's it. Now
install traction bar per instructions included with kit. It is now long
enough to make correct contact with the leaf spring when you punch the
throttle! The beauty of this little mod: you can turn the snubbers up so
that it will immediately make contact with the leaf springs. I have mine set
at 1/4 inch away from the leaf spring, this way I let the stock suppension do
its job, but when I get on it, the suppension moves, and the traction bars
are there to apply pressure! Make sure when you bolt on the Lakewoods that
you slide them all the way back against the plate that the rearend is bolted
to, hope this isn't confusing, it took me 3 times to get it all right!
A postitive side effect to the Lakewood Traction Bars with this little
mod:
YOU CAN NOW TOW OVER 2000 LBS!! I don't profess to be a suspension guru, I
just know by experience that this mod works!! I have towed and loaded more
than DCC says the R/T can do. I loaded up old Manger Extended cab (about
3900 lbs) on a car trailer ( homemade out of 4" rigid box steel, dual axle,
about 1200lbs itself) and towed it 3 separate times, no problems, no
bottoming out. I put 150 98 5/8" 2x4 in the back of my R/T, that made it
squat, but with the traction bars there, it never bottomed out. So I have
exceeded the towing and payload amounts that DDC said that the R/T could do,
with ABSOLUTELY no damage, side effects, broken, or bent parts on the R/T. I
hope this helps, I have written to you before about this mod, but never in
detail, I am usually a silent member. This, I hope, is a worthy contribution.
I appreciate all the members on these lists that aid in our efforts to
go faster, do it better, safer and cheaper!! C-ya
David Wilson
DML member for ages, member #42 of the R/T Registry
Member of the Southeastregiondakotartgroup, and new member of DTOA
98 Black Dakota R/T CC
Mods: Lakewood Traction Bars(of course), 14X3 K&N, Magnum Performance's
hottest TB (Jules is a good guy),MSD-6AL, MP Headers,2 1/2 custom dual
exhaust (no Cat), Alto performance Bands and Clutches(kevlar), Transgo Shift
Kit, MP Performance Computer(latest mod, made everything work together!)
14.64 at 95mph minus the MSD and MP Computer
I am headed to Moroso this coming Friday, I will post my new times on Sunday.
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