Re: R/T wheels on a pre '97

From: durling@attglobal.net
Date: Fri Feb 04 2000 - 23:22:38 EST


I was originally going to do that until my tire shop showed me these
custom lugs for these applications. It is basically an aftermarket version
of the factory lug with a twist....There is a shank machined onto the end
that is placed toward the wheel that is threaded and it inserts inside the
hole on the wheel. I got the ones that extend an extra 1/4" exactly the
same as the spacers. This way even though I lose a 1/4" of stud sticking
through the wheel the design of the lug still grabs exactly the same as
the stock ones did. These things are made heavy duty. I liked them so
much, and sense the lug hole on the wheels are more than the depth of the
lugs, I got a set for the rear also. I figured it was time to get rid of
the cheap pot-metal lugs that came from the factory. If you want to see
what i'm talking about go to www.mrlugnut.com and then to the new products
page and look at the lug centric bulge nut combination lug.

Jeff Durling

"mike d." wrote:

> you may wanna look into longer studs... MP has em'
>
> -mike d.
>
> ---> Yorktown, Va.
> 88 Dakota LE: slammed, painted, and PARKED =(
>
> miggitymike@juno.com
> http://members.xoom.com/dakotaperf/index.html
>
> On Thu, 03 Feb 2000 23:47:12 -0500 durling@attglobal.net writes:
> > I thought I would share this with the list. A long time ago I had a
> > line
> >
> > on a set of R/T wheels for my '96 dak but let them go due to the
> > price
> > and the fact that the offset doesn't work. We'll to make a long
> > story
> > short last week when I went to have my tires rotated and balanced I
> > was
> > talking to the guy at my local tire shop and he offered me a set of
> > R/t
> > wheels for $500 bucks and would do what he had to do to make them
> > work
> > or he would take them back.
> >
> > They have some junk tires on them but you can still get a few
> > hundred
> > miles out of them so we are experimenting with them on my truck. The
> > rear fits fine but to get them to work in the front you have to use
> > a
> > 1/4" spacer to get them to clear the upper a-arm and the center caps
> > that I always felt stick out 5 miles anyway. We tried some ETA lugs
> > which go into the lug hole on the wheel to make up for the shortned
> > stud
> >
> > sticking through. The problem is that they don't make them in a wide
> > enough seat so the lug itself digs into the rim and keeps loosening
> > up.
> > What we have found to do is drill out the holes a 1/16" of an inch
> > so it
> >
> > will not weaken the wheel and use some special lugs from enkei that
> > are
> > open all of the way through and have a piece that looks like an
> > extension to a ratchet set that fits on the inside of the lug and
> > hooks
> > up to your standard 21mm socket. I have to tell you these lugs grab
> > more
> >
> > of the stud than the factory lugs did on the original wheels. I know
> > there are some of you who don't agree with the spacers but I must
> > say
> > from experimenting that this setup is really solid. Hope this is
> > useful
> > for future considerations. When I get a chance I will take some pics
> > for
> >
> > Jon to update for older pics on the pics page. The only thing I am
> > goin
> > to have to do is find some good looking fender flares to coverup the
> > 1/4" of tire that sticks past the top of the wheel well.
> >
> > Sorry for such a long post but I thought it might help
> >
> > Jeff Durling
> > '96 RC Sport 5.2
> >
> > BTW, tires are damn expensive!!! Looks like around $800 bucks for
> > Pirelli Scorpion Zeros or Michelin Pilot H/T's mounted and
> > balanced.....ouch!!
> >
> >
> >
>
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