Re: DML Digest V4 #1783

From: jody fryer (fryertuck67@hotmail.com)
Date: Mon Mar 27 2000 - 11:13:49 EST


>From: owner-dakota-truck@buffnet.net (DML Digest)
>Reply-To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
>To: dakota-truck-digest@buffnet4.buffnet.net
>Subject: DML Digest V4 #1783
>Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 00:00:45 -0500 (EST)
>
>DML Digest Monday, March 27 2000 Volume 04 : Number
>1783
>
>
>
>The subjects discussed in this digest are:
>==========
>Re: DML: First Mods
>Re[2]: DML: PowerTrax
>DML: Re:Re:Signature file
>Re: DML: First Mods
>DML: 7-70 warranty
>Re: DML: PowerTrax
>DML: 20th (?) Mopar Nationals, Columbus, OH, In August.
>DML: Dakota Manufacturing Info
>DML: How do you reset the computer on a 99
>DML: Re: How do you reset the computer on a 99
>Re: DML: 2001 Ramcharger?
>DML: I Put on an AAR hood scoop
>DML: PowerTrax No-Slip Installed
>DML: Re: 20th (?) Mopar Nationals, Columbus, OH, In August.
>Re: DML: Anyone here have a 2000 dak with the 4.7L and auto transmission?
>Re[2]: DML: PowerTrax
>DML: Re: bike racks and first post
>DML: stock premag manifold
>Re: DML: Ram Air Hood for 95 318
>DML: Re: I Put on an AAR hood scoop
>DML: RE: RE: RE: DML Cam Questions
>DML: Re: Re: I Put on an AAR hood scoop
>Re: Re[2]: DML: PowerTrax
>DML: Re: 7-70 warranty
>Re: DML: Is this mileage for real? (and mileage questions)
>Re: DML: Dakota vs S10
>Re: DML: enough with the rice!!!!!!!!!
>DML: Re: PowerTrax No-Slip Installed
>DML: RE: Re: How do you reset the computer on a 99
>Re: DML: Dakota vs S10
>Re: DML: Is this mileage for real? (and mileage questions)
>DML: New track times (some new ponderings)
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 17:57:51 -0800
>From: James Harmon <jdharmon@earthlink.net>
>Subject: Re: DML: First Mods
>
>Contact tony deanda at www.quickd.com for a ported throttle body and air
>intake
>kit. The headers should be available from JBA (i think) in the near
>future.
>
>Jim
>DACUDA
>
>Craig Grass wrote:
>
> > As an owner of a shelby-dodge, I used to be on the Shelby-Dodge mailing
> > list. I'm sure this question gets asked about a million times, but I'm
>going
> > to ask again. ;)
> >
> > I have a new 2000 Dakota SLT Plus with the 4.7L v8. Are there any mods
>for
> > the 4.7L yet, or is everything still for the 318 and 360? If there are
>mods,
> > what should I do first if I'm looking for straight line speed? (Handling
> > will come later.)
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Craig
> > ______________________________________________________
> > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 21:07:40 -0500
>From: fawcett@uism.bu.edu
>Subject: Re[2]: DML: PowerTrax
>
><G> Unitrax is the retailer I bought mine from. They had the best price I
>was
>able to find and great service. I think their web site is:
>
>www.gearedbyunitrax.com
>Tom
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
>_________________________________
>Subject: Re: DML: PowerTrax
>Author: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net> at smtpout
>Date: 3/26/00 11:27 AM
>
>
>what is the difference between the Unitrax and the lock-right? They're both
>like a sure-grip, right?
>Andy Wittkamper
>_____________
>'88 Dakota LE
> 3.9 soon to be 360!!
>http://www.members.tripod.com/TiptonFFA/Truck.htm
>
>- ----- Original Message -----
>From: <fawcett@uism.bu.edu>
>To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
>Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 8:28 AM
>Subject: Re: DML: PowerTrax
>
>
>$384 OTD from Unitrax for the "new" no-slip. For your '88 you have the
>option
>of going with the original lock-right which can be had for a lot less $$.
>
>I'm going to make time to install my no-slip today as I know I would go
>nutz
>if
>I waited another week... Will advise.
>Tom
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 21:06:11 EST
>From: Quiktruk99@aol.com
>Subject: DML: Re:Re:Signature file
>
>Not bad, Preacher! I expected you to shred me. Thanks for being kind.
>
>
>Kevin/NJ
>99 CC V8 with most of the goodies
>check it out: <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/quiktruk99/DARKDODGE.htm">THE
>DARKDODGE</A>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 21:23:47 EST
>From: Gmblows@aol.com
>Subject: Re: DML: First Mods
>
>There are cat-back systems available. There are rumors of being able to use
>the
>non-pre-cat y-pipe on Cali, and Northeast emissions equipped trucks.
>Sticky tires, traction bars, and 3.92 or 4.10 gears will help 1/4 mile
>times.
>GM blows
>
>In a message dated 3/26/00 9:09:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>jdharmon@earthlink.net writes:
>
><< Contact tony deanda at www.quickd.com for a ported throttle body and air
>intake
> kit. The headers should be available from JBA (i think) in the near
>future.
>
> Jim
> DACUDA
>
> Craig Grass wrote:
>
> > As an owner of a shelby-dodge, I used to be on the Shelby-Dodge mailing
> > list. I'm sure this question gets asked about a million times, but I'm
>going
> > to ask again. ;)
> >
> > I have a new 2000 Dakota SLT Plus with the 4.7L v8. Are there any mods
>for
> > the 4.7L yet, or is everything still for the 318 and 360? If there are
>mods,
> > what should I do first if I'm looking for straight line speed?
>(Handling
> > will come later.)
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Craig >>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 21:24:55 EST
>From: Dcar67@aol.com
>Subject: DML: 7-70 warranty
>
>I am new to the list but have been reading the archives for some time.
>I have a 94 Dak RC 5.2 auto. 56k miles. I bought the truck a year ago.
>Yesterday I towed a 2200lb trailer 220 miles, did not use overdrive and
>everything seemed fine. This morning I take off it shifts 1-2 at 20mph
>instead of 10mph and does not shift to 3 at all.
>Went about 1/2 mile turned around came home, checked fluid and that seemed
>fine.
>color was red and level was good.
>What I was wondering if the 7-70 warranty I paid to have transferred to me
>is
>really worth anything if there is a tranny problem.
>Martin
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 21:29:14 -0500
>From: "blackdak" <blackdak@twcny.rr.com>
>Subject: Re: DML: PowerTrax
>
>Unitrax is the name of a gearing place in Califonia, me and a few others
>have bought stuff there. The lock-right is a locking type differential
>(Made
>by PowerTrax), very good for off roading but noisy for regular street
>driving from what I am told. The new PowerTrax No Slip is a modified lock
>right type differential that has clutches and is said to be much quieter. I
>have about 3000 miles on my No Slip and I think that it makes plenty of
>noise. Neither of these works like a sure-grip (posi, LSD, whatever) but is
>is another way to get traction to both rear wheels, a LSD is smoother and
>quieter for normal driving but does not lock the wheels together when
>extreme traction is needed. It only "limits the amount of slip" .
>
>Hope this helps,
>Gary
>
>DAKOTA CLUB CAB 4X4 SLT PLUS
>
>Exterior Color: Black Clear Coat w/Light Driftwood Satin Glow
>Interior Color: Agate, Interior Seats: Cloth High-Back Buckets
>Rear Gear: 3.55
>Engine: Next Generation 4.7L Magnum V8
>Transmission: Multi - Speed Automatic
>Optional equipment: Seats - Cloth High - Back Bucket, Console - Floor
>SLT Decor Group, Air Conditioning, Light Group, Console - Mini Overhead,
>Lamps - Map/Dome Reading, Speed Control, Steering Column - Tilt,
>Floor Mats - Front, Heavy Duty Service Group, Trailer Tow Group,
>Power Overhead Conv. Group, Wheels 15x8 Aluminum, Tires 31x10.5R15 OWL All
>Season
>Locks - Power, Keyless Entry, Windows - Power, Driver One-Touch,
>Power Mirrors, Sliding Rear Window, 6-Way Power Driver Seat, Fog Lamps,
>Radio - AM/FM Cassette/CD/Equalizer (Includes Infinity Speaker System),
>Auido Controls - Sreering Wheel Mounted, Steering Wheel - Leather Wrapped
>Mopar Accessories: sill guards, bug deflector, folding bed cover, spare
>tire
>lock,
>mud flaps.
>Mods: PowerTrax No-Slip extreme traction differential, Silibalde Wipers
>
>
>
>
>
>- ----- Original Message -----
>From: "Andy Wittkamper" <truckindak@hotmail.com>
>To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
>Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 11:27 AM
>Subject: Re: DML: PowerTrax
>
>
> > what is the difference between the Unitrax and the lock-right? They're
>both
> > like a sure-grip, right?
> > Andy Wittkamper
> > _____________
> > '88 Dakota LE
> > 3.9 soon to be 360!!
> > http://www.members.tripod.com/TiptonFFA/Truck.htm
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <fawcett@uism.bu.edu>
> > To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 8:28 AM
> > Subject: Re: DML: PowerTrax
> >
> >
> > $384 OTD from Unitrax for the "new" no-slip. For your '88 you have the
> > option
> > of going with the original lock-right which can be had for a lot less
>$$.
> >
> > I'm going to make time to install my no-slip today as I know I would go
>nutz
> > if
> > I waited another week... Will advise.
> > Tom
> >
> > ______________________________ Reply Separator
> > _________________________________
> > Subject: DML: PowerTrax
> > Author: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net> at smtpout
> > Date: 3/26/00 1:01 AM
> >
> >
> > Lemme know what you find out about these, I think they look like a good
> > product, but not worth 500$ to find out blindly.
> >
> > Andy Wittkamper
> > _____________
> > '88 Dakota LE
> > 3.9 soon to be 360!!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 21:28:23 -0500
>From: "Andy Wittkamper" <truckindak@hotmail.com>
>Subject: DML: 20th (?) Mopar Nationals, Columbus, OH, In August.
>
> Will anyone be there besides me? If so, maybe we could meet up? My
>truck's
>not much, but I'm proud of it, and I'd like to see some other people's
>trucks. I haven't ever been to a DML meet, they're all way too far away for
>me to go to at this point in time, but I've gone to Columbus for the last 2
>years, and Indy before that. I live in Indiana, am I all alone?
>
>Andy Wittkamper
>_____________
>'88 Dakota LE
> 3.9 soon to be 360!!
>http://www.members.tripod.com/TiptonFFA/Truck.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 19:40:46 -0700
>From: " Tim" <magnum318@uswest.net>
>Subject: DML: Dakota Manufacturing Info
>
>Subject: Dakota Manufacturing Info
>
>Does anybody know of an Internet Site or address where a person can get ALL
>the information on a particular vehicle. I would like to know as to how
>many
>DAK's they built of my model. I have a '95 model SLT+, and I'm just about
>the only one that I've seen in these parts that has a sun roof. What I NEED
>TO KNOW is how many they built with auto trannys,2 or 4 wheel drive,long or
>short bed, etc. I'm looking for the TOTAL BREAK-DOWN for my vehicle and
>then
>the total that they built of that vehicle with all the particular extras
>that it came with. Just like they do with antique vehicles as to options
>and
>total production.
>
> thanx
> magnum318@uswest.net tim
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 21:57:12 -0500
>From: "Chad Simon (NCHD)" <chad.simon@wcom.com>
>Subject: DML: How do you reset the computer on a 99
>
>How do you reset the computer on a 99 sport, auto, V6? And why would you?
>
>
>
>- -------------------------------------------------------
>NC-Ghost
>http://www.echomarket.com/dakota/
>99 Dakota Sport, V6, Auto
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 22:04:36 -0500
>From: "Chuck and Loreen" <clrobbins@home.com>
>Subject: DML: Re: How do you reset the computer on a 99
>
>You reset the computer by disconnecting the negative battery cable and
>a) leaving it off for at least 15 mins or b) turing the key to the start
>position
>for at least 15 seconds. You would want to reset the computer after doing
>some modifications that would change the performance of the engine
>ex. throttle body, IAT relocation, headers, new air intake. Be advised
>that you will lose the stereo presets and the trip odometer (if you're
>tracking
>mileage)
>
>Chuck Robbins
>'99 Sport v6 5spd 2wd RC
>http://www.members.home.com/clrobbins/dakota.htm
>
> > How do you reset the computer on a 99 sport, auto, V6? And why would
>you?
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------------------------------------------------
> > NC-Ghost
> > http://www.echomarket.com/dakota/
> > 99 Dakota Sport, V6, Auto
> >
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 21:06:04 CST
>From: "Matt Koth" <rpmkoth@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: DML: 2001 Ramcharger?
>
>While I was looking over the used cars in Des Moines last weekend I found
>what looked like a Dodge Ram half ton reg cab short box with a topper. But
>I
>thought it was strange that instead of being labeled sport, it was labeled
>super sport, and being the Dodge nut I am I stopped to take a closer look.
>As I pulled next to it(it was raining pretty hard) I noticed the topper was
>molded flush to the bed. I thought, what the heck, so I got out. As I stood
>there getting soaked, I saw it was a Ramcharger, it had a bench seat in the
>back and buckets
>in the front. The thing that really surprised me was the hatch was very
>cheap looking. Sort of like the ones on cheap toppers, and it used a
>regular
>ram tailgate. So it must have been an aftermarket conversion. But it was
>still cool. Oh and for anyone intrested it had
>18,000 miles on it, and they only wanted $14,995.
>
> Matt
>
> >From: "David Chester" <nonlabel@earthlink.net>
> >Reply-To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
> >To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
> >Subject: DML: 2001 Ramcharger?
> >Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 00:37:00 -0800
> >
> > Today while shopping, I saw a brand new Dodge Ramcharger , 2 door,
> >metallic blue. When did they start making these? I know they were in
> >Mexico, but not the US. Has anyone else seen one? Hasn't been a peep in
> >the media, as far as I know.
> >
> >Dave Chester
> >93 Dakota V8
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 20:13:24 -0700
>From: " Tim" <magnum318@uswest.net>
>Subject: DML: I Put on an AAR hood scoop
>
>Well Gang, I had a great weekend. The weather was in the 60's, so I called
>upon the garage to do some work on the ole '95. I installed an AAR hood
>scoop. This is the type of scoop that was found on the '70s Challengers.I
>got the scoop from a company in California called "Unlimited Performance
>Products" (909-735-7770). I got it for my birthday(8th,March).I took
>pictures of the mounting process in all stages, from the initial start all
>the way through to the final body graphic to divide the flat black, that I
>did the scoop and a portion of the hood in to give a color division for. I
>decided to go with a style that incorporated both the style of the old
>Challenger and incorporating also a little of the old Yenko. Where it would
>of said Yenko, I'm gonna put "MAGNUM" and let the color of the truck show
>through(emerald green). The scoop came as a non-functional, but I made it
>functional. Now I have to go to the speed shop and pick up a "volocity
>stack" to poke up through the hood and breath some fresh air. I would of
>liked to show you'all but I don't have a web page set up yet. I'm working
>on
>getting all my pictures together to put one together.
> Hey Pedro, Jason, and all the other Colorado DMLers--we need to have a
>get
>together sometime--what do you say?
> tim
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 22:15:23 -0500
>From: fawcett@uism.bu.edu
>Subject: DML: PowerTrax No-Slip Installed
>
>Finally got the thing in! While not difficult by any stretch of the
>imagination today was an exercise in frustration!
>
>Application:
>
>1998 Kota 4x4 with Open or Standard 8 1/4, 29 spline rear axle and
>automatic
>transmission.
>
>The Install:
>
>First, unless you have super tall jack stands, bring lots of wood to stack
>under 'em 'cause you ain't reaching the frame rails if ya' don't! Second,
>I
>know exactly how those F'N ASSH*LES sheared off my wheel stud (from a
>previous
>post for newbies ;)... I almost had to scrap the whole mission 'cause the
>lug
>nuts where put on with a ZILLION lb-ft of torque! For anyone in the N.E.
>area
>this was Sullivan Tire that did this. For your own sake, avoid these
>monkeys
>like the plague! Third, probably related to 2 above, the brake drums were
>an
>every lovin' b*tch to get off. After that the old gears, pinion shaft and
>everything else was a walk in the park except for the C-clips... I dunno
>if
>PowerTrax screwed up here or the tolerance/measurement of these vary as the
>OEM
>clips were too large to fit in the spacers that PowerTrax provides. More
>of a
>PIA than anything else as about 30-45 minutes, a vice and a hand metal file
>fixed 'em up. Didn't take much filing at all and the large amount of time
>was
>due to constantly testing the fitment to make sure I took off only the bare
>minimum. Random notes: Bring lots and lots of brake cleaning fluid. I
>used
>around 4 maybe 5 cans cleaning things up/out. Also, buy a can of Permatex
>gasket remover. I don't even want to know what's in this stuff, but it
>turned
>the old gasket into a goo that just rubbed off. Lastly, when they say
>twist
>and PUSH HARD on the replacement pinion shaft, they mean it! Ya' can't be
>tentative (like I first tried) and hope to get it past the internal
>springs.
>
>Preliminary Driving Impression:
>
>Note: This was a quick test jaunt of around 10-15 miles with the windows
>down
>and the radio off. Right out of the driveway I got a big assed clunk when
>shifting from reverse to drive. It's the standard Dodge tranny clunk plus
>some, plus A LOT actually... This seems to have calmed down a bit (maybe
>just
>the first shock of operation?). You are definitely going to hear a click
>(if
>you have the radio off and the windows down) as the unit disengages/engages
>when turning. There is no ratcheting sound, however, when one wheel is
>"free-wheeling" or disengaged while turning as I'm told can be heard in the
>previous lock-right model. Kind of interesting was I could tell which side
>was
>"clicking" (disengaging) when going into/out of a rotary (circle for non
>N.E.
>types). The clicking sound is not harsh or intrusive to my ears and I had
>a
>hard time hearing it when I had the directional signal (blinker :-) on.
>When
>parallel parking or any low speed situation with lots of turning and
>shifting,
>forget about it! The best way to I can describe this is that the unit was
>just
>plane confused... Lots and lots of clicking and clunking going on as I
>parked
>the rig! I'm told, and will soon find out, that the noise lessens as the
>unit
>breaks in... Could very well be that the driver gets used to it though!
>;-)
>Obviously I haven't tried it off-road yet, but there is no doubt it drives
>both
>wheels the same when power is applied. I particularly noticed it when
>powering
>into a turn like from a stop light/sign taking a left or right turn... The
>inside wheel really wants to spin as it's being turned at the same speed as
>the
>outside wheel... Kind of interesting feeling/phenomenon and I noticed the
>increased understeer this causes. That's about it for now, but there is
>one
>thing I need to point out/reiterate and that is that I have an automatic
>transmission... I'm told, and can see how a manual tranny would transmit
>much
>more of the feeling of the unit in operation and possibly be noisier.
>
>If anybody has any questions, just lemme know.
>Tom
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 22:19:50 -0500
>From: "John Burgan" <jgburgan@pcbank.net>
>Subject: DML: Re: 20th (?) Mopar Nationals, Columbus, OH, In August.
>
>Yeah, I am planning my yearly visit to Colombus this year to coincide with
>the Nats. Another DML meet sounds good to me. Can't wait to see some Brice
>Rd. burnouts.
>- -John
>- ----- Original Message -----
>From: "Andy Wittkamper" <truckindak@hotmail.com>
>To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
>Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 9:28 PM
>Subject: DML: 20th (?) Mopar Nationals, Columbus, OH, In August.
>
>
> > Will anyone be there besides me? If so, maybe we could meet up? My
>truck's
> > not much, but I'm proud of it, and I'd like to see some other people's
> > trucks. I haven't ever been to a DML meet, they're all way too far away
>for
> > me to go to at this point in time, but I've gone to Columbus for the
>last
>2
> > years, and Indy before that. I live in Indiana, am I all alone?
> >
> > Andy Wittkamper
> > _____________
> > '88 Dakota LE
> > 3.9 soon to be 360!!
> > http://www.members.tripod.com/TiptonFFA/Truck.htm
> >
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 22:16:32 EST
>From: Timbo95178@aol.com
>Subject: Re: DML: Anyone here have a 2000 dak with the 4.7L and auto
>transmission?
>
>yea but its better for the transmission and brakes that way
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 22:27:24 -0500
>From: fawcett@uism.bu.edu
>Subject: Re[2]: DML: PowerTrax
>
><<The new PowerTrax No Slip is a modified lock right type differential that
>has clutches and is said to be much quieter.>>
>
>Where's the bacon, uhhh, I mean clutches in the No-Slip? :-) hehehe
>
><<I have about 3000 miles on my No Slip and I think that it makes plenty of
>noise.>>
>
>When I have more miles/experience with mine I'd kinda like to compare notes
>on the noise. So far (less than 20miles) I'm not getting anything bad
>while
>moving at any kind of speed. Parking, OTH, is a completely different story
>so far.
>Tom
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 22:28:21 -0800
>From: Mike Cryan <m_cryan@snet.net>
>Subject: DML: Re: bike racks and first post
>
>I've been lurking around for quite a while looking for a question I could
>possibly answer and it is
>this: how do you carry a bike in the bed of a Dakota?
>
>I have a 2x8 plank lag bolted to a pair of 4x6x8 blocks, all cut to fit
>very snugly in the front of
>the bed - to get it out, I've got to disassemble the foolish thing. Holding
>the bikes in place are
>Bike Tight fork blocks and Yakima locking long throw skewers. The fork
>blocks are $25 each and the
>skewers are $90 each (not including lock cores). Rather expensive I know,
>but I've already had one
>bike stolen out of the bed, my new bike (99 Klein Mantra Pro) won't suffer
>the same fate. To back
>this all up, I've got a Kryptonite new york chain that locks the frame of
>the bike to the light bar.
>
>And a bit about meself. I've got a blue '91 Dakota Sport 4x4, regular cab,
>318 v8(premag), 4spd auto.
>When you buy used, you get what you can.... I just put the last payments
>down on her last month so
>things are already starting to go click and squeak and groan that were
>silent when the bank owned it.
>Its used primarily as a daily driver to my job (camp ranger at Yawgoog
>Scout Reservation) and there
>are no suspension or engine mods because I need it to go every morning. As
>much as I would like to
>install a 2" lift and locker to improve off road worthiness, I can't take
>it out of service long
>enough to do the work.
>For fun I: Mountain bike, climb ice, white water canoe, and backpack. I'd
>like to get an old M275a4
>mule for playing around in mud pits if anyone knows where they can be had
>fairly cheap....
>
>Mike
>'91 sport 4x4, 318, 4spd auto
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 19:29:58 -0800 (PST)
>From: frank golembieski <editzero@yahoo.com>
>Subject: DML: stock premag manifold
>
>if any one out on the list has a stock set of premag
>exaust manifoldes they could part with for a small
>price could you e-mail me off the list at
>golembieski@excite.com i have some expermenting i want
>to do
> thank you
> Frank 94 3.9 sport
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>http://im.yahoo.com
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 19:31:43 -0800 (PST)
>From: frank golembieski <editzero@yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: DML: Ram Air Hood for 95 318
>
>if your local performance stores carry Keystone Auto
>parts catalog's they used to sell them in there
>Frank
>94 3.9 sport
>
>- --- Brad Jasper <dakota_95@angelfire.com> wrote:
> >
> > Does anyone know where I can purchase a functional
> > Ram-Air hood for a 95 with a 318?
> > Any help will be greatly appreciated:-)
> > Brad Jasper
> > 95 318 5spd
> >
> >
> > Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail.
> > http://www.angelfire.com
> >
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>http://im.yahoo.com
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 22:26:46 -0500
>From: "Andy Wittkamper" <truckindak@hotmail.com>
>Subject: DML: Re: I Put on an AAR hood scoop
>
>Isn't it stupid to call it an AAR scoop when it doesn't look anything like
>an AAR scoop? ( I have an AAR hood in the garage, with the AAR 'Cuda still
>attached!) Just a thought, but why not call it the Challenger scoop or
>something like that? And what is Yenko?
>
>Andy Wittkamper
>_____________
>'88 Dakota LE
> 3.9 soon to be 360!!
>http://www.members.tripod.com/TiptonFFA/Truck.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 21:38:44 -0600
>From: Kurt Swanson <kswanson@peerenvironmental.com>
>Subject: DML: RE: RE: RE: DML Cam Questions
>
>John and Company
>
>Thanks for the replies! I was able to talk to a local muscle car
>enthusiast
>this weekend and he concures that there isn't a cam made that will meet my
>expectations. He thought that a cam swap could really pay off but only in
>mid to higher RPMs. He also said if I'm looking for more torque off the
>line, I should consider going with a different gear set up in the rear
>ends!
>
>Therefore I'll probably stick with the stock cam for now and maybe I'll
>spend the money on doing the gears and the Powertrax no slip!
>
>Anyway, Thanks for the help!
>
>Kurt
>
>- -----Original Message-----
>From: John Mautz [mailto:jmautz@home.com]
>Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 5:35 AM
>To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
>Subject: DML: RE: RE: DML Cam Questions
>
>
>If you want bottom end torque keep the stock cam (3500 RPM and below). If
>you want top end HP then the Hughes 0612AL is about the best out there (the
>bigger Hughes cams will produce even more top end but loose way too much
>down low and may cause problems with the computer).
>
>If you want to add a blower (Vortech, ProCharger, Powerdyne or such) then
>the stock cam is still your top choice for low end torque (up to 3000 RPM).
>But for the top end the CompCams 20-604-8 looks excelent from 3500 RPM on
>up.
>
>The problem with the Hughes and Comp 20-604-8 cams is their high lobe lift
>of .512. This is great for top end drag racing but will cause extended
>valve train ware as the valves are moving a greater distance and the
>springs
>are being compressed more before being released. Remember even at idle the
>valve still travels the same distance as when at max RPM.
>
>If you want my opinion, which you may not, stick with the stock cam. DC
>did
>a good job when they picked this cam.
>
>John.
>
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-dakota-truck@buffnet.net
> >[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@buffnet.net]On Behalf Of Kurt Swanson
> >Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 4:22 PM
> >To: 'dakota-truck@buffnet.net'
> >Subject: DML: RE: DML Cam Questions
> >
> >
> >
> >sorry for the repost, just hoping someone will respond!
> >
> >
> >Hey every one,
> >
> >I know quite a bit of talk has occured about this subject in
> >previous posts,
> >however, I'm still very ignorant regarding how to choose the right cam!
>My
> >truck is an automatic 4X4 and I drive primarily in the 700 - 5800
> >rmp range.
> >I am looking for something that is compatible with the stock computer but
> >will give me more off-idle torque and then pull strong up to 5800 rpms!
>I
> >occaisionally pull a 2,000 pound trailer. With that said, here are my
> >questionns?
> >
> >- What brand and part # would you suggest?
> >
> >- Has anyone out there with similar mods to mine done a cam
> >upgrade, and if
> >so your thoughts or impressions?
> >
> >- Did you do it yourself or have a shop do it for you? Approximate
>cost?
> >
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Kurt Swanson
> >
> >97 Dak Sport CC 4X4 318 auto, K&N Gen II, Mesa headers, Y-pipe and Hi-flo
> >cat, MSD Digital 6, SS-coil, Magna Flow (single 2.5" in, dual 2.5" out).
> >Waiting on time and weather to install the Hughes 1.6 Roller Rockers,
> >
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 22:37:01 -0500
>From: "Jon Smith" <fast4x4@bellsouth.net>
>Subject: DML: Re: Re: I Put on an AAR hood scoop
>
>Line of Hi-po camaros from the 60's
>
>And what is Yenko?
> >
> > Andy Wittkamper
> > _____________
> > '88 Dakota LE
> > 3.9 soon to be 360!!
> > http://www.members.tripod.com/TiptonFFA/Truck.htm
> >
> >
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 22:37:54 -0500
>From: "blackdak" <blackdak@twcny.rr.com>
>Subject: Re: Re[2]: DML: PowerTrax
>
>Tom,
>
>Clutches are inside the one part that fits over the axel, in the manual
>they
>tell you to line up the theeth a certain way before you put it on. I was
>told or read somewhere that there is a clutch or clutches that allows this
>part to spin inside the other part, but not spin too much. The clunking
>would be much louder if this piece were allowed to spin without some drag
>on
>it.
>
>Gary
>- ----- Original Message -----
>From: <fawcett@uism.bu.edu>
>To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
>Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 10:27 PM
>Subject: Re[2]: DML: PowerTrax
>
>
> > <<The new PowerTrax No Slip is a modified lock right type differential
>that
> > has clutches and is said to be much quieter.>>
> >
> > Where's the bacon, uhhh, I mean clutches in the No-Slip? :-) hehehe
> >
> > <<I have about 3000 miles on my No Slip and I think that it makes plenty
>of
> > noise.>>
> >
> > When I have more miles/experience with mine I'd kinda like to compare
>notes
> > on the noise. So far (less than 20miles) I'm not getting anything bad
>while
> > moving at any kind of speed. Parking, OTH, is a completely different
>story
> > so far.
> > Tom
> >
> >
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 22:47:59 -0500
>From: "Ken Allgood" <kallgood@worldnet.att.net>
>Subject: DML: Re: 7-70 warranty
>
>Make sure that you are completely shifted into Drive. on my 97 auto, even
>tho the lever shows it's in drive, it's really about 1/2 a click away.
>First time it happen, didn't realize it until I was doing 60 and was doing
>in the area of 3500 rpm or so. Just tapped the lever up a little,and it
>shifted up. Since then, whenever I get in the truck, I just make sure it's
>all the way into Drive.
>
>Ken Allgood
>97 cc slt 5.2L
>
>- ----- Original Message -----
>From: <Dcar67@aol.com>
>To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
>Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 9:24 PM
>Subject: DML: 7-70 warranty
>
>
> > I am new to the list but have been reading the archives for some time.
> > I have a 94 Dak RC 5.2 auto. 56k miles. I bought the truck a year ago.
> > Yesterday I towed a 2200lb trailer 220 miles, did not use overdrive and
> > everything seemed fine. This morning I take off it shifts 1-2 at 20mph
> > instead of 10mph and does not shift to 3 at all.
> > Went about 1/2 mile turned around came home, checked fluid and that
>seemed
> > fine.
> > color was red and level was good.
> > What I was wondering if the 7-70 warranty I paid to have transferred to
>me
>is
> > really worth anything if there is a tranny problem.
> > Martin
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 23:11:59 EST
>From: Hemipower@aol.com
>Subject: Re: DML: Is this mileage for real? (and mileage questions)
>
>In a message dated 03/16/2000 8:33:38 PM EST, andylevy@bigfoot.com writes:
>
><< My father pointed me to this post on the DOC's message board:
>
>http://www.durangoclub.com/cgi/ceilidh.cgi/ceilidh/?C3d1e0e145pRi-3728-1100-30
>.htm
> . Long story short, Ram diesel, 30MPG at 45MPH. Is this for real?
>
> He also noted 1MPG picked up after putting on a hard tonneau. I'll be
> getting a tonneau real soon (found out I'll be getting a little bonus
> the end of the month). At what point does the law of diminishing
> returns kick in? I've seen a nice boost in mileage with my QuickD
> intake, and the tonneau may give me some more. But I know it has to
> stop at some point. How much can I realistically expect out of a
> 318/auto/4x4/3.55 - and we're talking headers, QuickD intake & TB,
> tonneau, and catback (those are all the mileage-improving mods I can
> think of)?
>
>
>Adding up the gains reported from each individual mod, I'd
> get over 20 MPG after installing them all, but that isn't realistic, is
> it?
> >>
>These are questions for a podiatrist. : )
>

Try to think of it like this:

If you take 20 bolt on mods, they are each "worth" 10 hp, you should have
200+ hp, right?? No. They allo have to work together as one unit, and even
then, they will counter each other to a certain degree, or just plain become
incompatible.

There are plenty of things that you can do to a vehicle to save gas, but I
think the most important is the leg the accelerator foot is attached to.....

J. Fryer
'99 cc bk r/t
14.68@92.16mph

> <A HREF="http://www.mikesdakota.com/html/phones/">Limited Edition Dakota
>Phones</A>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 23:12:05 EST
>From: Hemipower@aol.com
>Subject: Re: DML: Dakota vs S10
>
>In a message dated 03/16/2000 9:55:41 PM EST, mopar98@webtv.net writes:
>
><< My buddy has his fathers old 91 S10 ex-cab,4.3 V6(125 hp) with 130,000
> miles on her and not realy maintained that well.........anyway...he says
> his truck would outrun my 40k mile non-modified(175 hp) Dakota...i said
> bulls**t.....
>
>
>what do you all think?
> >>
>
>Your friend needs to seek professional help. As in a checkup from the
>neckup.
>: )
>
> <A HREF="http://www.mikesdakota.com/html/phones/">Limited Edition Dakota
>Phones</A>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 23:12:16 EST
>From: Hemipower@aol.com
>Subject: Re: DML: enough with the rice!!!!!!!!!
>
>In a message dated 03/19/2000 12:32:36 PM EST, Blinkslowly@aol.com writes:
>
><< Ok all, what the heck happened? Why is everyone obsesed with rice
>burners.
> It's a given that 4 cylinders no matter how much NOS and tubos they have
>will
> never keep up with RWD V8's. So lets get off this point and stop racing
>these
> people. I don't even give these guys the time of day.
>
>
>Someone has too teach these yunguns what it's about. : )
>
>Not to mention it is fun.
>
>
>
>If I want to do some
> stomping I find Mustangs Cameros Lightnings 454ss. American made power.
>If
>it
> wern't for 1973 and the gas crisis we would of never heard of Honda. So
> anyway as Bernd would say that my .02
> Rob
> >>
>
>
> <A HREF="http://www.mikesdakota.com/html/phones/">Limited Edition Dakota
>Phones</A>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 22:15:56 -0600
>From: "Kyle Kozubal" <grndak4x4@home.com>
>Subject: DML: Re: PowerTrax No-Slip Installed
>
> > Finally got the thing in! While not difficult by any stretch of the
> > imagination today was an exercise in frustration!
> > Application:
> > 1998 Kota 4x4 with Open or Standard 8 1/4, 29 spline rear axle and
>automatic
> > transmission.
> >The Install:
> > > First, unless you have super tall jack stands, bring lots of wood to
>stack
> > under 'em 'cause you ain't reaching the frame rails if ya' don't!
>Second,
>I
> > know exactly how those F'N ASSH*LES sheared off my wheel stud (from a
>previous
> > post for newbies ;)... I almost had to scrap the whole mission 'cause
>the
>lug
> > nuts where put on with a ZILLION lb-ft of torque! For anyone in the
>N.E.
>area
> > this was Sullivan Tire that did this. For your own sake, avoid these
>monkeys
> > like the plague! Third, probably related to 2 above, the brake drums
>were
>an
> > every lovin' b*tch to get off. After that the old gears, pinion shaft
>and
> > everything else was a walk in the park except for the C-clips... I
>dunno
>if
> > PowerTrax screwed up here or the tolerance/measurement of these vary as
>the OEM
> > clips were too large to fit in the spacers that PowerTrax provides.
>More
>of a
> > PIA than anything else as about 30-45 minutes, a vice and a hand metal
>file
> > fixed 'em up. Didn't take much filing at all and the large amount of
>time
>was
> > due to constantly testing the fitment to make sure I took off only the
>bare
> > minimum. Random notes: Bring lots and lots of brake cleaning fluid. I
>used
> > around 4 maybe 5 cans cleaning things up/out. Also, buy a can of
>Permatex
> > gasket remover. I don't even want to know what's in this stuff, but it
>turned
> > the old gasket into a goo that just rubbed off. Lastly, when they say
>twist
> > and PUSH HARD on the replacement pinion shaft, they mean it! Ya' can't
>be
> > tentative (like I first tried) and hope to get it past the internal
>springs.
>
>You just couldnt wait could you Tom????? I thought you said you would have
>to wait till next weekend!! From start to finish, how long did it take you?
>This is good to know anyone can really install these....and save alot on
>installation at that!! Did you previously have a rear LSD or an open rear
>diff?
>Good to hear things went good. Can wait to try it out off road can you>?
>Kyle
>93 Dakota 4x4 V6
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 22:16:27 -0600
>From: "Bernd D. Ratsch" <bernd@texas.net>
>Subject: DML: RE: Re: How do you reset the computer on a 99
>
>Or do it the easy way:
>
>Disconnect the NEG side, turn the key to the start position, hold for 15
>seconds, remove the key, reconnect the battery. That's the proper way.
>
>- - Bernd
>
>
>- -----Original Message-----
>From: owner-dakota-truck@buffnet.net
>[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@buffnet.net]On Behalf Of Chuck and Loreen
>Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 9:05 PM
>To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
>Subject: DML: Re: How do you reset the computer on a 99
>
>
>You reset the computer by disconnecting the negative battery cable and
>a) leaving it off for at least 15 mins or b) turing the key to the start
>position
>for at least 15 seconds. You would want to reset the computer after doing
>some modifications that would change the performance of the engine
>ex. throttle body, IAT relocation, headers, new air intake. Be advised
>that you will lose the stereo presets and the trip odometer (if you're
>tracking
>mileage)
>
>Chuck Robbins
>'99 Sport v6 5spd 2wd RC
>http://www.members.home.com/clrobbins/dakota.htm
>
> > How do you reset the computer on a 99 sport, auto, V6? And why would
>you?
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------------------------------------------------
> > NC-Ghost
> > http://www.echomarket.com/dakota/
> > 99 Dakota Sport, V6, Auto
> >
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 22:17:54 -0600
>From: "Kyle Kozubal" <grndak4x4@home.com>
>Subject: Re: DML: Dakota vs S10
>
> > In a message dated 03/16/2000 9:55:41 PM EST, mopar98@webtv.net writes:
> >
> > << My buddy has his fathers old 91 S10 ex-cab,4.3 V6(125 hp) with
>130,000
> > miles on her and not realy maintained that well.........anyway...he
>says
> > his truck would outrun my 40k mile non-modified(175 hp) Dakota...i said
> > bulls**t.....
> > what do you all think?
>
> > > Your friend needs to seek professional help. As in a checkup from
>the
>neckup.
>
>Agreed. My Dak has 120,000 miles and I can beat a brand new 4.3L S-10 ZR2
>4x4 on the street and in the mud. I have pulled a couple out from a local
>sand pit.
>Kyle
>93 Dakota 4x4 V6
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 23:18:50 -0500
>From: Andy Levy <andylevy@bigfoot.com>
>Subject: Re: DML: Is this mileage for real? (and mileage questions)
>
>What the hell does a foot doctor have to do with it?
>
>Hemipower@aol.com wrote:
> > These are questions for a podiatrist. : )
> >
> > <A HREF="http://www.mikesdakota.com/html/phones/">Limited Edition
>Dakota
> > Phones</A>
>
>- --
>- -andy
>
>http://home.twcny.rr.com/andylevy/ --- andylevy@bigfoot.com
>- -----------------------------------------------------------
>Let's all get GNU'd together!
>- -----------------------------------------------------------
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 23:45:14 EST
>From: Dester223@aol.com
>Subject: DML: New track times (some new ponderings)
>
>A little depressing, but I got 3 runs at the track today.
>
>1st run (I'll get the timeslips and post them up later)
>got a 17.6 with a lot of squeeling off the line.
>got a 2.501 60'
>
>2nd run
>17.2 (iced the intake down and reset teh computer)
>i think 60' sucked. something like 2.6 spun them pretty good
>
>3rd run
>17.8 (stayed in the staging line forever and the truck really warmed up.
>I
>was stupid and turned the electrical fan dial ALL the way to 210 so it
>wouldn't kick in during the run, but I didn't think the line would be that
>long, but it was and it was the last run and I knew I was going home
>anyways)
>bad reaction time. 1.05 hehe...
>
>Anyways. I think 2 things are hurting my 1/4 miles time. 235/60/15s
>instead
>of the factory 235/70/15s
>I didn't use to lose traction off the line, but the shorter tires and
>"bigger" gear ratio is making me spin off the line. also down the 1/4
>mile.
>before. as soon as I passed the finish line, it'd shift into 3rd. now, I
>shift into 3rd 7/8 of the way down the track and it just feels sluggish.
>Any
>ideas on that?
>
>Second thing I think is holding me back is weigh. I need to get the sound
>system out and the tonneau cover off. That should drop me into the 16s.
>
>As for DMLers are the track. I saw (2) theoretically. one had a black R/T
>and the other guy had this sweet blue R/T. Total R/Ts at the track today:
>3... red, blue, and black. my first run was against the red R/T and he
>beat
>the living @#$@# outta me. 15.5 to my 17.6. oh well. Guess I gotta go
>weld
>on 2 more cylinders..
>
>- -Dester
>
>------------------------------
>
>End of DML Digest V4 #1783
>*************************
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