Project MPG is something that I've done to other vehicles I've owned
but, I've never tested & documented the results. Although the
discussions concerning the results have gone on between two of closest
friends( both are ASE Master Technicians) for quite some time now (years
!) Both of my friends are very skeptical when it comes to synthetic
lubricants, lubricant additives, coolant/antifreeze additives, expensive
spark plugs & plug wires, high-flow air filters or Cat back exhaust
systems. There are some people in discussion groups (NG's) who seem to
get very angry when a newbie tries to start a discussion concerning any
one of these mods. So, I decided to test & document the results on this
Dakota, soon after I bought it.
The initial goals of Project MPG are;
1. The Truth concerning improvements with these mods.
2. Improve the gas mileage by installing carefully selected lubricants
and aftermarket parts.
3. Retain the use of 87 Octane gas.
4. Retain the factory emissions standards.
5. Keep the costs low !
The first things I did when I got this truck home (@ 22,524 mi.) were
changing the motor oil, oil + air filter and PCV valve. The former owner
had used Pennzoil conventional 10W-30 motor oil and Wix oil (changed
every 3,000 mi.) & air filter (changed @ 15,000 mi.) the PCV valve was
stock.
I changed it to Valvoline SynPower full synthetic 10W-30 motor oil
($20.85) , AC/Delco Ultraguard Gold Premium oil filter ($9.39) and a
Purolator Premium air filter ($6.78) & PCV valve ($1.72).
I also added enough Valvoline SynPower Fuel System Treatment to treat 25
gals. of gas to the gas tank ($12.50).
I changed the transmission fluid (Valvoline +3, Chrysler 7176
spec.)($21.00) and filter (Wix)($10.00), and had a Thrust Angle wheel
alignment ($40.00) performed at 23,053 miles.
So, unfortunately there won't be any data using conventional motor oil.
I want to clear up the myth/misconception about using full synthetic
motor oil in a new engine. It IS perfectly o.k. and beneficial to use
full synthetic motor oil from day one in a new engine. For example; ZR1
Corvettes and Lamborghini's both leave their factories with full
synthetic oil in their crankcases.
Muscle Car Review also reported this fact in a 1999 issue to dispell
this myth.
I wanted Project MPG to accurately display the MPG results of each
modification I made. So I picked out a 50.5-mile test route on a freshly
paved 4-lane highway. I would begin each test drive by filling up the
gas tank, to the brim, at the same Texaco gas pump and station. I'll
drive the 50.5 miles uninterupted/undisturbed (turning around after
25.25 mi.) with the cruise control set @ 55 MPH and refill the tank, to
the brim back at the same pump at the Texaco station. This test route
will only provide "100 % highway driving" gas mileage results, as
accurately as I can provide !
After driving approx. 2,700 miles after performing the scheduled
preventive maintenence described above, then rotating and setting the
air pressure in the tires @ 35 psi, I performed Test # 1.
Test drive # 1. Conditions: 25,400 mi. on truck. 68`F, 99 % humidity.
Test drive # 1. Results: 20.89 MPG.
I changed the motor oil & filter again @ 25,600 mi.
I decided to perform an upgrading tune-up as my first modification. I
ordered a "Standard Ignition" distributor cap ($7.80) and rotor ($4.76),
8 "Champion" Double Platinum Spark Plugs (part # 7071) ($26.60) from
www.carparts.com (prices using 1/3 off coupon & including s & h) and, a
custom fit set of Taylor Spiro-Pro (part # 74676, Blue wires) 8mm spark
plug wires ($41.73 including s & h) from www.summitracing.com . I
removed and inspected each of the original parts and, every part and
spark plug was still in very good condition. I then installed the new
tune-up parts myself. I did not disconnect the battery to reset the
computer because it's unnessesary to do so after a tune-up and, after
driving 100 miles after the tune-up, I performed Test drive # 2.
Test drive # 2. Conditions: 26,000 mi. on truck. 60`F, 85 % humidity.
Test drive # 2. Results: 21.86 MPG. A 0.97 MPG increase !
I know the spark plugs were due to be changed in another 4,000 miles
but, the dist. cap, rotor & wires were not scheduled to be replaced
according to Dodge's maintenance schedule.
Test drive # 3. will be performed after a cooling system
flush/backflush, then installing a 35 % coolant/antifreeze-65 %
distilled water ($12.00)-1 bottle Red Line Synthetic Oil "Water Wetter"
Super Coolant ($9.50) mixture.
Draining the differentials and installing Red Line Synthetic 75W-90 LSD
gear oil ($33.54 / 4qts.) with 1 bottle of Mopar Limited Slip Gear Oil
Additive ($6.95) added to the rear differential oil.
Test drive # 4. will be performed after installng a K & N O.E.M.
replacement air filter (part # 33-2084)($44.69).
Test drive # 5. will be performed after installing a DynoMax UltraFlo
Cat Back 3" exhaust system (part # 17359)($221.69 est. installed /
including welded installation).
Test drive # 6. will be performed after installing a "Checkmate" Soft
Cover-Hinged Tonneau cover ($175-$180.00 ?) I haven't purchased this
yet.
Test drive # 7. MIGHT be performed after installing a JET Stage II,
Hypertech or MP PCM/PTM, if I ever decide to install one of these.
I know this post is a long one but, I hope it has interested you !
Larry Echols
Burkeville, VA
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 11:51:00 EDT