Dont forget, the less air that is forced through the radiator, the less cooling the
radiator will do. It is true that you can re-route air around the radiator to make
the enging compartment cooler. But this will make it hard for the radiator to work
properly.
The best way to keep the intake temp cool is to relocate the air filter outside the
engine compartment. Why do all these companies make $200 + kits which position the
air filter inside the engibe bay? I have always made my own intake systems, and
put the filter as low and front as possible.
Another thing to think about is air always flows from high pressure area to low
pressure area.
If you want to see what the serious people are doing (and by serious, I mean the
guys who are running nine and ten second quarter miles, not the guys who cut holes
in everything and run fifteen and sixteen second quarter miles) take a look at the
Spoon, STR, and other drag cars and pay attention to the air _outlet_ vents at the
rear edge of the front wheel wells, as well as the air _outlet_ on the back side of
the radiator on the hood.
These people have learned that the secret to increased cooling and cooler running
engines is to get the air _out_ of the engine compartment more efficiently, not
rerouting air around the radiator and cutting holes, adding ram air hoods, etc...
Cowl hoods are the only way to go for cooling the engine compartment IMO. If you
have a ram air hood, you better have it sealed and connected to the intake to avoid
raising the air pressure under the hood.
Hope this helps!!
-- -=Mike Kuriger 1991 Isuzu Impulse RS 1.8 2000 Dodge Durango SLT 4x4 4.7 (cowl hood soon!!)bernd@texas.net wrote:
> I'm not trying to sway you away from the custom hoods (they DO look good on our > trucks) and I did notice a 15 degree drop in underhood temperature from my Cowl > Hood. > > Fortunately, someone else from the list has proven a good way to reduce the > intake temp with a intake tube by removing the rubber flap next to the radiator > (passenger-side). >
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