If get any opportunity, look at the Cobra R, ACR Viper (racing version), and
other GT racers (the racing Vette). I have to disagree since these folks
have been doing it for awhile on the close air canister.
-------------------------------------------
Steven St.Laurent
Test Engineer
Test Branch, GSD, MCTSSA
MARCORSYSCOM, USMC
760-725-2506 (DSN 365-2506)
Work:mailto:stlaurents@mctssa.usmc.mil
Home:mailto:saint1958@home.com
-----Original Message-----
From: durling@attglobal.net [mailto:durling@attglobal.net]
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 10:48 PM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: DML: RE: Quick-D Throttle Body now air canister
Not trying to stir things up with Tony since I feel he has done alot for the
dml, make a
great product, and has been very helpful with a couple of questions in the
past. I have
never bought from him solely because I am not sure what I am going to do
with my intake
and I didn't know about him when I bought my TB (got mine from b&f instead
and they too
made a great product in my opinion). I do want to bring up the Canister
intake from
Intense Performance. Otherwise known as the Stage III kit. I am not sure I
can agree that
it would starve the air intake. I understand where that may be thought but
it is a 7" or
9" filter with a canister that looks to be an 1.5" to 2" around that. It has
a solid 3"
outlet tube (as is now common) and it has a 4" inlet tube that is a piece of
flex tube and
has an air intake bell at the end. If the bell is located behind the gril it
would catch
alot of air into it and flow directly into the filter. This, btw, has an
inlet in the
middle of the top so it doesn't have to flow around the sides of the filter
to go in. I
have seen these filters around town and checked out several of them and they
don't look
like crap so I think the design of that is sound. The canister may get hot
at idle but
under accl. ther would be air flowing through it and that would help to keep
it cool. You
could also do the same thing if you don' t like the can (i'm not sure) and
attach the
flexhose to the end of the filter but have it exposed in the engine
compartment while
still flowing back to a 3" tube. This would be fairly straight through for
the air-flow as
the before mentioned but would be more suseptable to the engine compartment
heat. I think
this is the stage II kit but need to look again. I have never seen anywhere
that the
engine heat lowers ebough with the filter up front to not absorb some sort
of heat soak
that would affect performance. I am not endorsing anything about intense
performance but I
am rather curious about the different setups from him as compared to a setup
like tony's.
Again, nothing to harp on Tony just my observations on something that has
been brought up
and that feel is something to discuss on the list. Simpler terms, I;'m just
looking for
unbiased opinions about what you think about this type of design. I am
personally going to
purchase the Intense stage III kit later this month and will also set it up
in the stage
II form. I have been assured that if I don't like it I can return it which I
will do. If I
had enough money I would also buy Tony's kit just to compare more for my own
feelings and
ideas about the two designs. I have a gen II and right now the only thing I
can do is
purchase and airhat (already done) and fit the different kits up or stick
with the open
element heat suck (yeah it's better then stock but not much in hot weather).
Tony, I am
not addressing this as a flame but as my personal opion on an idea that you
don't agree
with. PLease don't take it personally. If you want you can email me
personally to continue
this discussion and even maybe come up with a different design or see if it
is really
needed. Just tinkering I really would love to come up with an affordable
higher flowing
airhat. Sorry for such a long post everone but this is something that I
don't anyone has
tried and tested out. Just want ideas.
Jeff Durling
'96 RC Sport
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 11:55:50 EDT