Every exhaust shop in my town has the machine....you need the material and
pay for labor.
-------------------------------------------
Steven St.Laurent
Test Engineer
Test Branch, GSD, MCTSSA
MARCORSYSCOM, USMC
760-725-2506 (DSN 365-2506)
Work:mailto:stlaurents@mctssa.usmc.mil
Home:mailto:saint1958@home.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Barry Lawton [mailto:derkroozer@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2000 8:58 AM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: DML: Fwd: Homebrew Intakes ( kinda long )
--- Barry Lawton <derkroozer@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 04:39:05 -0800 (PST)
> From: Barry Lawton <derkroozer@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Homebrew Intakes ( kinda long )
> To: owner-dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET
>
> Steve, and all others considering having a exhaust
> shop bend up an inlet pipe. Most shops can not
> mandrel
> bend pipe. They compresion bend it like the
> $100-$300
> hydrolic benders you see at Harbor Freight and
> Northern Hydrolics. Mandrel bending is a process of
> drawind an internal mandrel through the pipe as it
> is
> bent so as not to crimp or compress, or distort the
> pipe at the bend area; hence the ID stays consistant
> through out the pipe. This is why stainless exhausts
> cost more when they are mandrel bent over
> conventional
> steel. Cheap exhaust systems are mearly put on a die
> and the pipe forced around it, distorting the shape
> and size. Remember you pay for what you get.
>
> Second point Aluminum works as a heat sink in both
> directions. It will try an find the ambient
> temperature of the surrounding air. Stainless if it
> is
> sheilded from direct heat will not absorb as much.
> However once its heat index rises it retains the
> heat
> longer. That is the principle behind Jet coating
> Headers. It is to retain the heat not release it. So
> coating or wrapping or painting your home brew
> intake,
> will not help in every day driving. You need to have
> a
> seperate sheild with an air space betwen to optimise
> the codl air flow. ;>{)
>
> Barry Lawton
>
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