Curt
Yes I did port and polish it myself. I have a friend who is a mechanical
engineer and we do some serious projects together, I do the control systems,
he does the mech work. We measured the 65mm and the 68mm TBs and constructed
models in CAD (I wish I had ACAD). We examined the taper of the bore and
wall thickness in a cross section drawing and determined the max amount of
material we could remove. We could have opened it up to 70 or 70.5 mm but
that would require a new blade so for now we did not do any removal of
material in the area where the blade seats.
After removing the throttle position sensor I removed the ring clip with
snap ring pliers with home made tangs. The one I could find in the stores
were too short to reach down into the barrel. It took three tries to find a
suitable material to make the tangs from. Modified nails were too soft and
bent. Tungsten was too brittle and snapped, 304 Stainless steel worked
great.
Before removing the shaft I marked the shaft so I could later determine
where to stop removing material so I would not mess up the surface that
makes contact with the bearing surface in the TB.
I used a Dremmel tool to remove the material in the bore being careful not
to touch the area where the blade seats. Then I made a wood cone shape with
the same diameter I was going for and applied felt to it with contact
cement. The I used a rouge polishing compound made for polishing aluminum
that I purchased at Sears. Then mounted the jig on a drill press and buffed
it. When it was done it looked like chrome.
The shaft was first notched two mm on each end on the side without the
threads in the holes. Then I used a grinder and hand held file to bring that
part of the shaft down to 1.5 to 1.7 mm thick. The other side of the shaft
got the same treatment but I took it down to 2.5mm thick.
I purchased Stainless screws with a lower head profile and counter sunk the
holes in the 1.5mm side to match.
I had packed the bearing holes, and other channels with cotton batting to
keep the destruction debris out of those places. I removed the packing and
cleaned the TB. Reassembled the TB and installed it.
Works great. Seems that you loose a little low end torque but lower mid
range and up it's way better. No affect on mileage except when I put my foot
into it.
I did the 65mm first, tested it, then did the 68mm. I plan on making 70mm
blade and taking the 65mm TB to a machine shop and having it bored out to
fit. Then the 68 will get the same treatment if the 65 works OK. I might
then sell one of them.
I would have just gotten one from quickD but after reading the emails from
folks not getting good customer service (little or no replies to inquires),
I decided to give it a go. I gotta say that I think it's easy.
Hope this helps.
Patrick O'Day
2000 Dakota 4x4, 4.7L, CC
Ztube w/9 inch big mouth filter
68 MM TB Ported and Polished
Mobil 1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt Coulter" <curt@cjnetworking.com>
To: <dakota-truck@BUFFNET.NET>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 7:48 PM
Subject: RE: DML: Oil change/Fumoto valve
> Yeah, I don't know why they babble about the adapter, I didn't need any
such
> adapter on my 00 either.
>
> Hey Patrick, did you port/polish your 68mm TB yourself? I have one on the
> way and I'd like to polish it up before I put it in, got any tips?
>
> /Curt
> 00 QC 4x4 4.7 5-spd, Gibson 3" stainless cat-back, soon: z-tube & 68mm tb
> Chelsea, MI
>
> > The 4.7L uses a F106N with OUT the spacer/adapter they say you need on
the
> > website
> >
> > I take the tubing off.
> >
> > Patrick O'Day
> > 2000 Dakota 4x4, 4.7L, CC
> > Ztube w/9 inch big mouth filter
> > 68 MM TB Ported and Polished
> > Mobil 1
>
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