Attn:Tom North, was Re: Drag Racing tonight!

From: Mark Kuzia (flyboy01@mediaone.net)
Date: Sat Mar 17 2001 - 18:48:04 EST


Tom, I tend to agree with Sam, you might have a fuel delivery problem. I
would check a few things to be sure. You definately have something out of
whack, time to do some detective work. If you need, e-mail me off-list and I
will give you my phone number and I can talk you through a few things.

1) Get a fuel pressure guage and watch the readings, you should be at no
less than 39psi at WOT. I was able to make a nice setup using a $25 guage
and a 3' length of high-pressure Earls hose that screwed into the factory
pressure tap on the fuel rail. I was easily able to tell my fuel pump was
going bad with this setup. It should tell you if you have enough fuel.
(don't forget you will need to de-pressurize the fuel rail and use a
schrader valve tool for this) If pressure is fine, you will most likely need
bigger injectors, 24# will work, but I would shoot for some 21# if you can
find them.

2) Absolutely make sure ALL sensors are plugged in. Contrary to popular
belief, the truck will run and drive without a few sensors, there may be a
few you never thought of too, like the trans sensors. (this may be a big
clue here since you are having trans problems too) (Also check for vacuum
leaks) Belive it or not, I drove my truck for a week when I first bought it
with an O2 sensor unplugged, ran fine, but a little rich.

3) Have a dealer check the distributor timing on the scope, you may be off
by as much as 16 degrees! Mine is! When I re-installed my disributor last
year I was a tooth off and just recently discovered this. The most I can
advace my dist is 4 degrees retarded without having to pull it out and
re-install it. It is another myth that you cannot adjust the distributor
because of the computer. You do, in fact, have 8 to 16 degrees of
adjustability depending on the system in your truck. If you just want to try
something, you can try turning the dist counter-clockwise to advance it.
(You will not find this in any shop manual, I found this out from actual
Chrysler mechanics)

4) Did you degree your cam in when you installed it? On Hughes cams, I was
told by them, you can get a lot of power loss if it is too far retarded.

You really should be running in the 14.00 @ 99 mph range with your engine
and mods. Judging from you times, it looks like you just have a lack of
power and not a bad trans, unless its is just in too bad of shape. The 330,
1/8, 1000, and 1/4 times are all down evenly and indicate problems rlated to
power production, not transfer. If you just had no traction, your mph #'s
would have been much higher.

Mark Kuzia
flyboy01@mediaone.net
http://people.mw.mediaone.net/flyboy01/home.html
1995 Dakota 13.79 @ 102.45 mph
360ci, 5-spd, 4.11 LS(8 3/4 coming soon), Cowl-induction
(A new E-body 8 3/4 [3.90 SG] has been built by Reider Racing)
http://www.twistedbits.net/WWWProfile/dakota/FqNiqqo2UjQOY/

> > 1st run (smoked through most of first gear!)
> > 60' 3.242
> > 330 8.443
> > 1/8 12.155 @ 67.68mph
> > 1000 15.277
> > 1/4 17.979 @ 83.33mph
> >
> > 2nd run (launched from idle, it still spun...had to get out of it so
the
> > tranny would go into 3rd gear)
> > 60' 2.359
> > 330 6.629
> > 1/8 10.14 @ 70.27mph
> > 1000 13.208
> > 1/4 15.83 @ 85.62mph
> >
> > 3rd run (Still spun them a good amount off the launch, again had to let
> off
> > for 3rd)
> > 60' 2.337
> > 330 6.662
> > 1/8 10.19 @ 70.13mph
> > 1000 13.249
> > 1/4 15.953 @ 82.16mph
> >
> > >
> > > My Homepage -
> > > http://home.swbell.net/prodog
> > > Dakota Profile -
> > > http://www.twistedbits.net/WWWProfile/dakota/EzewC1MzHo2lA/
> > >
> >
>



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