Thanks for the reply, I was just thinking of using these kinda clamps:
http://shop.airflowonline.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/X004484t.jpg
Will these work?
Thanks
william
----- Original Message -----
From: <jon@dakota-truck.net>
To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: DML: 3rd cat removal
>
> "William H. Hiatt III" <william@hiatt.net> wrote:
>
> : Well, based on results from other people, I'm going to take the third
cat
> : off of my 4.7L. Now, I got the following questions:
>
> : 1) I'm just going to cut it out, shouldn't be a problem right?
>
>
>
> Shouldn't be - depending on what tools you plan to use. :-) I
> had a pretty easy time with a Sawzall when I did the muffler on
> my Dak (as long as you have the proper blade). After helping Andy
> with the muffler on his Dak and having to break out the plasma cutter
> when I realized I didn't have the right blade for the sawzall, I
> decided to get one of those chain style cutters. (Note to self: do
> not lie underneath a plasma cutter again!) ;-) I've got a chain
> style cutter on order from JC Whitney for about $20. If it works
> as advertised, it should be a very useful tool indeed.
>
>
>
> : 2) I want to make it so I can bolt that sucker back on for smog testing
if I
> : need to. Is there a problem with bolting exhaust pieces back on? Just as
> : good as welding, right?
>
>
> Bolting together isn't as easy to get a leak free seal as with
> welding, but its still OK - most exhaust systems are bolted together.
>
>
> : 3) What size straight pipe do I need to buy?
>
>
> Depends on if you really want to use clamps or not (see below)
>
>
> : 4) What are the best exhaust clamps to buy for this? I'm just going to
> : straight pipe it and use clamps to switch the muffler in and out. Where
do I
> : get the clamps?
>
>
> My recommendation would be to get 6 exhaust flanges, weld 2 to the
> pipes on your truck, two to the straight pipe and two to the cat.
> (The straight pipe and cat pipe must be the same length.) then,
> replacing the cat with the pipe or vice versa is just a matter of a
> couple of gaskets and some bolts. My Dak is set up this way. If you
> don't have a welder, you should be able to get a local exhaust shop
> to do the work.
>
>
> However, if you are set on clamps, I would give the "band clamp"
> style a shot. I used them with good success on my Dak in the past.
> They're just under $8 each at JC Whitney, stainless steel. Those
> clamps won't crimp the pipe and will make it easy to take the exhaust
> apart. With a standard exhaust clamp, you have to be VERY careful or
> you will crimp the pipe and they are stuck together just as tightly
> as if they had been welded. Often, it is nescessary to tighten
> those clamps down tight to seal the pipe, so using them on a system
> you want to take apart is risky.
>
> As far as the offroad pipe goes, that's the easy part. What you
> can do is stop down at Autozone (any parts store really) and pick
> up an "exhaust resonator" This is a 1.5-2' pipe that has both ends
> expanded. Get a pipe which has ends that are the same ID as the OD
> of your stock exhaust pipe. (Probably 2.5") Measure the resonator,
> and subtract the depth of the ends. Measure this same distance on
> your exhaust system where your cat is located, and cut the stock pipe
> at these two spots. (Such that the cat will be cut out.) Now, the
> resonator will fit right in place of your cat, your stock exhaust
> pipes will fit into the ends of the resonator, and you can use the
> band clamps to seal everything up. You might also want to smear some
> copper RTV or equivalent on the connections to help the seal a bit,
> and help to prevent having the pipes rust together.
>
>
> Now, here's the tricky bit... What to do with the cat? The
> problem is that its the exact same length as the cut, so the
> pipes won't overlap - there's nothing to clamp to. One option
> would be to try to just hold it in place with a band style
> clamp. This might work just to get it to the inspection station
> and back. (Though if the inspection station saw what you
> were doing they'd probably not be too happy - and justifiably
> so.) :-) Another option, and this one will take some luck...
> Find an exhaust pipe with the same OD as the ID of your stock
> system. Cut this pipe so you get two sections of about 5-6" long,
> and do the exact same thing I just described except slip one
> of those pipes into each joint first. That should greatly
> increase the strength, and I wouldn't have any qualms about driving
> around like that. Yet another option is to take your cat
> to a muffler shop and have them weld a couple of ends onto it.
> These ends should have the same ID as the OD of your stock
> exhaust system. (You're basically replicating the straight
> pipe (exhaust resonator) except its got a cat in the middle. :-)
>
>
> I hope that gives you some ideas. :-) Good luck!
>
>
> --
>
> -Jon-
>
> .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or
jon@jonsteiger.com -----.
> | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL
|
> | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly
|
> `-----------------------------------------
http://www.jonsteiger.com ----'
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