Think I know what you're talking about, which wouldn't be a bad idea...
That helps direct the effect forward (anothing good thing about
hatchbacks).. A 10" is even better.. For the most part, 8's & 10's are
better suited for thumping bass, while 12's and larger are better suited for
low/wide bass. I run a similiar Kenwood amp in my Probe. That sub is
probably about 250 Watts RMS, which means you want to be close to that range
when you get it hooked up to an amp. The Kenwood Amp I have is a 150wx2,
but 600w peak when bridged (Take the postive from, usually the right channel
of the amp, and plug that into the postive of the sub, take the negative off
the left channel, and plug that into the negative of your sub)... Run the
Amp around 50% gain, and go from there. May even want to start at 25% gain
and push it up to a good level. Just watch it since if that is the same
AMP, you can push both it and the sub pretty hard with it bridged like that.
If you listen to rock music for the most part, you'll be missing out if you
go for the wide bass, since rock is mostly thumping bass. My 12's kick butt
when it comes to wide bass, but don't do too well with thumping bass. A
better system to get the both of both worlds is 2 10's and 2 12's, unless
you go with like 10 12's.. :-)
As to materials, glass and plexiglass are about the best to bounce the air
off of. For the box, make it of some sturdy wood, minimum 1/4" thick,
probably better to go with 1/2". You don't want the sides of the box to
move at all... Also, when you build the box, use some caulk (sp?) or
something like that to fill up the cracks where the boards meet so no air
leaks out there. Not sure about lexan, don't know anything about it,
depends on how sturdy it is.
Also, just an FYI, make sure you use thick gauge for the power and ground,
like 8 gauge or better (think most use 6 or 4? been awhile).. For your amp
to your sub, if you bridge it like above, use some monster cable, like
around 12 gauge. Remote switch from the amp to the deck won't matter, 16
gauge, etc. Also make sure the amp can breathe, especially if bridging it
as it will get hot. Any other questions, lemme know. I run systems both in
my Probe and my Dakota that I setup by myself.. I really get into this
stuff :-)
Here's a pic of my setup.. It's not clean, but it works.. Again, I turned
it around and put guards on the subs...Not easy to fit 4 12's in the back of
a CC side by side :-)
http://members.cox.net/kenallgood/dakota/DCP00125.JPG
----- Original Message -----
From: <Blakdak2k@aol.com>
To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 9:27 PM
Subject: Re: DML: Sub-woofer ?
>
> <<Might help if you tell us what type of music you like to listen to
(rock,
> etc).. Do you want the quick-hard hitting thumping bass, or do you want
the
> low (wide) rolling bass. I presume the thump bass because that's what 8's
> are good for.>>
>
> I listen to rock almost exlusively, and if I had to choose I would say I
> perfer the (wide) bass, but either one is fine, I wasn't planning on
getting
> this stuff but I was at store close-out and it looked like some good
deals,
> and remember seeing those under the seat boxes so I picked some stuff up.
I
> just looked at the sub again and it is actually a 10 not a 8, like I said
it
> was close-out and I wasn't to picky.
> So bouncing the air off something is good? makes sense, which materials
are
> best glass is good, what about lexan (plastic). What I am thinking is
open
> sub with a lexan panel that folds up at an at around a 45 degree when the
> rear bench is lifted, giving the effect of a hatchbacks rear window.
> Understand that I know almost nothing about car stereo.
> Thanks for the help.
> Aaron
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Feb 06 2004 - 11:46:00 EST
