OK... I think you anwsered all the questions i had...just need to do it now
:)
-- Gary Hedlin President Hedlin Web Designs http://www.hedlin.net ""Josh Battles"" <jbattles@bankfinancial.com> wrote in message news:bcshav$kni$1@bent.twistedbits.net... > > Not necessarily. The rear of your truck is usually higher by about 1 or 2 > inches than the front. When lowering it you level it wout by dropping the > back more. If you buy leafs like I did, there's a way to add (or remove) > pads on the springs to adjust your final ride height. Since you want to > lower your truck by 3" all around, I'd recommend going with either a 2" coil > and a 1" control arm or the other way around for the front. Depending on > where you look, you may even be able to find 1" drop spindles to use in > conjunction with the coils. For the rear you can either use 3" leafs or > blocks. > > I do have to say that with the front of my truck lowered 2" I scrape a > DECENT amount. It's mostly just the license plate bracket but my tires have > definately scrubbed on the wheelwells over some drastic bumps/dips. Good > luck with your project! Let us know how it goes and post pics!!! > > -- > - Josh > Lowered 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L > > > ""Gary Hedlin"" <ghedlin@theramp.net> wrote in message > news:bcs1g6$ro$1@bent.twistedbits.net... > > > > So I would assume the engine weight would compensate for the difference > > between the front & rear to level it out?? > > > > -- > > Gary Hedlin > > President > > Hedlin Web Designs > > http://www.hedlin.net > > "Patrick Delgado" <dadoctah@vitelcom.net> wrote in message > > news:BB16FF38.A670%dadoctah@vitelcom.net... > > > > > > 1. 2/3 and 2/4 mean it will be lowered 2" in front and 3" in back or 2" > in > > > front and 4" in back respectively. > > > > > > 2. If tires are 2" shorter, truck will be 1" closer to the ground and > the > > > space between tire and fender will increase by 1". > > > > > > 3. My sister used Western Chassis on her truck. No problems. > > > > > > > > > -- --Patrick Delgado > > > 2000 Dakota RC 5.9 R/T; 9 psi Powerdyne w/ 7-rib pulley, Gatorback belt, > > F&B > > > stage I TB, TV cable adj., Homebrewed K&N 0920 behind foglight, MAP > boost > > > bypass, IAT relocation, MSD6BTM, MSD 8.5 superconductors, 3923's, MP > > > computer, NO CAT, katbox, full Hotchkis kit, Bilsteins, 255/50 kuhmo's > and > > > 275/50 nitto's, powerslots/QS pads, Jason cap. In possession but not in > > > position; Belly pan plate and traction bars. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > on 6/19/03 4:01 AM, Gary Hedlin at ghedlin@theramp.net wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > I've decided to lower my dak about 3 inches, but I have a few > questions > > > > about the kits do so... > > > > > > > > 1. The kits are listed like 2-3 and 2-4....how does an idiot like me > > > > determine the overall inches it will be lowered?? > > > > > > > > 2. Most likely I want to be 3 inches lower...but the height of my new > > tires > > > > is 2 inches shorter than the stock 215/75/15's. Would this be a > factor > > in > > > > how low the final product will be?? > > > > > > > > 3. Has anyone used the Western Chassis lowering kits? Has anyone ran > > into > > > > any issues with them?? > > > > > > > > Thanks in Advance! > > > > > > > > >
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Feb 06 2004 - 11:46:28 EST