Hollow tubes flex more and are not quite as "reactive" as solid bars.
Look at most of the aftermarket bars...they're not hollow. If you want
to compare factory to factory (solid vs. hollow)...i'll stick with the
solid bars. (We already tested the hollow vs. solid bar theory on a '01
R/T - the solid one works MUCH better.)
- Bernd
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of DAKSY
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 2:41 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: Re: Late model sway bars WAS: Re: DML: Design flaws or just
things I am noticing since this is my first
Hey, DML!
<snip> Woah...back the truck up. You're telling me the sway bars on my
'03 QC Sport+ are *hollow*?<snip>
I really hate to make a statement, then hafta duck & run for cover, but
I disagree with the Status Quo... Tubing (hollow rod, if you will) is
actually stronger than solid bar. I know it sounds absurd, but think
about it....A solid bar has one surface - the outside diameter (OD).
With enough strain, this surface will bend or torque, & if it's pushed
past its elastic limit, it will deform and may or may not be able to be
cold-press straightened. If it can be straightened, it will not be as
strong as the original material. Tubing, on the other hand, has TWO
surfaces to strengthen it..An OD AND an Inside Diameter (ID). It is
inherently stronger than a solid bar OF THE SAME MATERIAL...Granted,
with enough strain, it WILL deform, but it'll take more to do it than
the to deform the solid bar, & small deformations CAN be cold-pressed
back, as long as the deformation doesn't cause the tubing to "kink."
So... if you're talking about a good alloy steel (Cold-forged or Hot
Drawn 4340, 4140, 4130, 8620 etc,) go for the tubing. Now if the tubing
used on the Gen III DAKs is really thin-walled, say under 1/8" wall, it
IS doo-doo, but if I hadda replace it, I would not hesitate to use
tubing... I'm done...
Bob Smith (DAKSY2K on AIM)
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