hehe yeah the springs were cheap....about 9 bucks a piece i think...I
went ahead and did both of them...the intake and exhaust valve
springs...and seals and all....kind of a balance thing to me...
Wilbur
Aaron Wyse wrote:
> You don't really want to push them far beyond that.. I'm sure many have run
> them closer to 200K miles or better; but the more miles you try to get out
> of it, the bigger chance you have of it letting go on you as well.
> Glad to hear that was all it needed.. I bet that spring was cheaper than
> tearing everything apart also.
> Aaron Wyse
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wilbur" <bwgreen@ocean.otr.usm.edu>
> To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
> Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2004 4:52 PM
> Subject: Re: DML: replacing timing chain on 1998 dakota 2.5 liter
>
>
>
>>Hey Guys,
>>
>>Just wanted to say thanks again. I replaced the broken valve spring and
>>tested compression on the cylinder...it was around 150 psi...buttoned
>>everything back up and she runs like a champ again. You guys saved me
>>from the expense of a timing chain, sprockets and gaskets.
>>
>>BTW, out of curiosity, what is the average life of a timing chain on the
>>4 cylinder 2.5L Daks? It seems to me it should have lasted more than
>>100,000 miles (thats when it was changed out--supposedly had gone bad).
>> I guess I could open it up and look at it...but how exactly would I
>>tell wear on it? Looseness? Oh well, have a good weekend!
>>
>>Wilbur
>>
>>
>>
>>Wilbur wrote:
>>
>>>That would be good. :) It would definitely make the job easier. I had
>>>to order the valve springs...none of the local parts places or the dodge
>>>dealership had any in stock...So the Dodge dealership is ordering some
>>>from Dallas, I think.
>>>
>>>FYI, when I started taking things apart, I noticed that the CCV vacuum
>>>tube was broken...so I had the dealership order one of those too...they
>>>had to order that little item from Detroit. :) I wonder why the 2.5L
>>>have a CCV (Crank Case Ventilation) vacuum tube instead of a PCV valve
>>>like the larger engines?
>>>
>>>Oh well....supposedly all the parts will be in by next friday so I will
>>>proceed at that time to replace the valve spring...Thanks for all the
>>>help guys--Cross your fingers and say a prayer for me. Hopefully this
>>>will bring my baby back to working order for a bit. You guys are really
>>>a great bunch of people. :) I'll let you know how it goes. Have a
>>>great weekend guys!
>>>
>>>Wilbur
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Aaron Wyse wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>at TDC.. maybe 3/4 inch max.. just my ballpark guess.. The cyl head
>>>>pockets
>>>>can't be that big.
>>>>Aaron
>>>>
>>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Wilbur" <bwgreen@ocean.otr.usm.edu>
>>>>To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
>>>>Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 10:59 PM
>>>>Subject: Re: DML: replacing timing chain on 1998 dakota 2.5 liter
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Yeah I think I will start with replacing the one bad spring and go
>
> from
>
>>>>>there...I wonder...at TDC, how far would the valve "fall" in if I were
>>>>>to replace the spring and I was unable to keep hold of the valve stem?
>>>>>Would it fall far enough in that I could not reach it or would enough
>
> of
>
>>>>>the valve stem be sticking up to pull it back up? just curious.
>>>>>
>>>>>Wilbur
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Aaron Wyse wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>another way to hold the valve up is to fill the cylinder with a rope
>>>>>>(at
>>>>>>BDC) and then then give the crank a little bump to compress it a
>>>>>>little.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Personally.. I would just replace the one bad spring.. then do
>
> another
>
>>>>>>compression test. If all is well. Drive it another 50K miles or so
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>before
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>I worry about anything else. Since a valve spring should not have
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>broken in
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>the first place, assume it as more of a fluke break than an actual
>
> high
>
>>>>>>mileage problem. Make sure you do a couple of oil change fairlu close
>>>>>>together.. just in case any particles of spring are circulating
>
> around
>
>>>>
>>>>in
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>there.
>>>>>>Otherwise.. The valve may have actually damaged something that will
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>require
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>more work. And you'll need to go in deeper.
>>>>>>Also.. glad you found the problem
>>>>>>Just my opinions.
>>>>>>Aaron Wyse
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Wilbur"
>
> <bwgreen@ocean.otr.usm.edu>
>
>>>>>>To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
>>>>>>Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 4:00 PM
>>>>>>Subject: Re: DML: replacing timing chain on 1998 dakota 2.5 liter
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>You bet I will. :) Ok currently....I put cyl #1 to TDC and
>
> injected
>
>>>>>>>air into sparkplug opening....heard air hissing in valve cover...So
>>>>>>>removed valve cover, and wahlah, i see the first valve at the front
>
> of
>
>>>>>>>the engine (facing the fan and radiator) has a busted spring. I am
>>>>>>>not
>>>>>>>sure if that one is the intake or exhaust valve spring, just that
>>>>>>>it is
>>>>>>>the first one in line. The valve has not dropped...it is still
>>>>>>>attached. The valve still could have "kissed" the piston, so to
>>>>>>>speak.
>>>>>>>So sounds like i need to replace that spring at the very least...and
>
> I
>
>>>>>>>suppose I should replace the other one of the pair too? Should I
>>>>>>>replace all the valve springs and and locks and retainers and valve
>>>>>>>stem
>>>>>>>oil seals for all 4 cylinders or just for cyl #1?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>The push rods looked okay from cyl #1, not bent or anything and I
>
> have
>
>>>>>>>the rockers, bridge and pivot assembly and bolts (also looked fine)
>>>>>>>sitting in a box in the correct order to put back on.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>As for replacing the valve springs...from what i can see online,
>
> some
>
>>>>>>>peeps recommend using air pressure via the spark plug hole to keep
>
> the
>
>>>>>>>valve seated while taking off the spring....I don't have an air
>>>>>>>compressor at all to maintain the recommended pressure (90psi) to
>
> keep
>
>>>>>>>the valve seated. Any other recommendations to keep the valve
>
> seated
>
>>>>>>>while I remove the spring? Could I tie some string to the valve
>
> stem
>
>>>>>>>after I have it compressed to keep it from falling into the
>
> cylinder?
>
>>>>>>>Oh and do the valve compressors you can get at autozone and
>
> O'reillys
>
>>>>>>>work for this kind of job? Thanks.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Wilbur
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Josh Battles wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>""Rick Barnes"" <barnesrv@comcast.net> wrote in message
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>Josh,
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>You blew a ring for that very reason..once you did the great valve
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>job,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>>>you
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>increased the compression in the cylinder and the weakened rings
>>>>>>>>>could
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>not
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>hold the increased compression..viola, broken rings...common, and
>>>>>>>>>your
>>>>>>>>>advice is right on, (in my humble opinion). If you do a valve
>>>>>>>>>job, at
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>least
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>replace the rings too.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>Rascal
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>that's what my uncle told me... (ase master certified mechanic)
>
> after
>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>fact, and while he was helping me replace the rings and smooth out
>>>>>>>>the
>>>>>>>>slight cylinder wall scoring. If I was gonna do it now, I'd do it
>>>>>>>>all
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>at
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>once and save myself the extra headache later on.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>learn from our mistakes Wilbur! If you end up having to have
>
> valves
>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>done,
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>do the rings now too so you don't have to do them later.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Sun Feb 01 2004 - 16:29:51 EST