Barry,
I just put the JCW rotors on my truck this last
weekend. I also put in the ceramic pads to see how
they are going to work. So far, they are great. Nice
smooth control and no squeaks. They also came with
with a couple of packets of anti-seize.
I've only put on about 70 miles so far. I think the
instructions said that it takes about 250 miles to
break them in.
As far as putting them on, it was easy. Way easier
than I thought it was going to be. Didn't even have to
bleed the brakes. Just used the old pad to compress
the piston with a c clamp.
I had my brakes serviced by the stealer previously, so
the locking washer was no longer on one of the studs.
All I had to do was wiggle the rotor a bit and it came
right off.
One thing I did find, was that putting that outside
"spring" back on was easier if you put the top part in
first. Oh, and according to the FSM, you need to
torque the hex bolts to 22 ft/lbs.
I'm really interested to see if this set of
rotors/pads are going to do better than the stealers.
Hope that helps!
--- BARRY OLIVER <DHSPA58@dhs.state.il.us> wrote:
>
> Well, after 94,000 dirty but otherwise troublefree
> miles, it's time to do brakes on the dak ['99, 4x4,
> 318]. After a search of the archives, it seems that
> we spend more time OT on brake threads than talking
> about brakes. So, I have a couple of specific
> questions:
>
> To the guy(s) that are using the JCW drilled/slotted
> rotors, do you like them and what pads are you
> using?
>
> What is the verdict on Ceramic pads, how clean/dirty
> are they, do they stop well, are they quiet?
>
> My goal is to retain at least the stock level of
> stopping power, with less dust. More stopping power
> would be great, but isn't really necessary, as I
> stop pretty well now, stock. BTW my stock pads and
> rotors lasted 65,000 miles at least [they were
> replaced at some point before I got the truck at 28k
> miles]
>
> Last, any tricks/ recommendations for me on this? I
> already have a 7mm hex bit for my ratchet....
>
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