Ok, now I am in a quandry. [whats new] I just pulled my wheels and I 100% need to replace at least one rotor, as it seems that one of my pads has managed to quietly grind quite a groove in it. Since I have to replace one rotor, I now have an excuse to upgrade my brakes. It seems the cheapest way to go happens to be the:
SSBC Short Stop Rotors & Pads for $245 shipped.
Stainless rotors seem like a good idea, but the problem is that i've never heard anyone mention these, AND this website:
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm
seems to argue for the use of iron rotors over steel (or stainless for that matter). I also don't know how much differently drilled and or slotted rotors will perform once I bake some mud into all of the little crevices, so I am really not sure if I want to go with holy rotors or not... This would be easier if there was only one choice....
>>> srp@cox.net 03/01/04 17:59 PM >>>
http://www.socaldakota.com/brakes.html
:)
>
> From: "BARRY OLIVER" <dhspa58@dhs.state.il.us>
> Date: 2004/03/01 Mon PM 02:43:34 EST
> To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
> Subject: Re: DML: RE: Brake time
>
>
> Ok, JCW offers 2 different (high end) pads, a titanium(?) and a ceramic. They want $75 for a set of the ceramics. That seems much better than the $109 I was quoted at autozone.. How much are those hawk pads and where can one find them?
>
> -Barry
> MCP, A+, Network+, Server+
> ===============================
> Efficiency is doing things right.
> Effectiveness is doing the right things.
> Character is doing the right thing when nobody is looking.
> ===============================
> Contact Info:
> 217-899-6105 Cell 217-467-8673 Page
> 217-558-6000 Desk barryoliver@novanis.com
> Username: barrysuperhawk
> on AIM, Yahoo, MSN and AT&T IM clients
> >>> barnesrv@comcast.net 03/01/04 13:14 PM >>>
>
> Interesting timing Barry, I have the Power Slots on my 98 5.2 2WD, and had
> the Hawk pads when I first got the rotors. The Hawks stopped much better
> than stock, but wore out after about 30k miles and I switched to the
> Raybestos Plus PG pads, but after about 20k miles, I have warped my Power
> Slots as I feel a pulse and it hops around under braking. The Raybestos did
> seem to stop better than the Hawks though, so I was pleased with that. I
> have not had any incident where I really jammed on my brakes to have
> overheated the rotors and always carefully torque my wheels on, but I now
> need to have the rotors turned and new pads. I think I may try those Green
> pads that someone mentioned on the DML. I am also going to replace my
> calipers and may look for stainless lines as well.
> I welcome any thoughts along with Barry.
>
> Rascal
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of BARRY OLIVER
> Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 12:23 PM
> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> Subject: DML: Brake time
>
>
> Well, after 94,000 dirty but otherwise troublefree miles, it's time to do
> brakes on the dak ['99, 4x4, 318]. After a search of the archives, it seems
> that we spend more time OT on brake threads than talking about brakes. So,
> I have a couple of specific questions:
>
> To the guy(s) that are using the JCW drilled/slotted rotors, do you like
> them and what pads are you using?
>
> What is the verdict on Ceramic pads, how clean/dirty are they, do they stop
> well, are they quiet?
>
> My goal is to retain at least the stock level of stopping power, with less
> dust. More stopping power would be great, but isn't really necessary, as I
> stop pretty well now, stock. BTW my stock pads and rotors lasted 65,000
> miles at least [they were replaced at some point before I got the truck at
> 28k miles]
>
> Last, any tricks/ recommendations for me on this? I already have a 7mm hex
> bit for my ratchet....
>
>
>
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