RE: Update: Fuel Pump Replacement

From: RayB (bpracing@worldnet.att.net)
Date: Mon Mar 22 2004 - 11:09:23 EST


Good job Aaron. Very thorough write up. I'm sure it will be helpful to
many in the future.

The only thing I would add for those needing just a sending unit is that,
although a new fuel pump should come with the sending unit attached, the
sending unit is also available separately from the dealer and attaches with
(as I recall) 3 small screws. I have actually done this on my '92. If you
wouldn't mind, could you take a close look at your original pump and confirm
if this is also true for a '95 ?

Thanks,
RayB
http://www.dragtruk.com/ENTRIES/20KM1FD2KWBP.html

> -----Original Message-----
> From: A. S.
>
> For those of you who have been following my questions on replacing the
> fuel pump, here’s the latest update. I was able to replace the fuel pump
> over the weekend with no problem. Here are some answers to the
> questions I
> had and other details that may be helpful to anyone else who
> attempts this
> in the future.
> First off, there is the debate of dropping the tank vs. jacking
> up the bed
> vs. completely removing the bed. Having first hand experience
> now I can say
> that the easiest way is to remove the bed completely. So what’s involved
> with removing the bed…how many bolts??? On my 95, there were 8 bolts.
> After removing the 8 bolts, the lights need to be unplugged and the spare
> tire crank tube thing needs to be removed. Also, the gas filler
> neck needs
> to be disconnected. All of this is extremely simple and takes
> very little
> time. After all of this is removed/disconnected, the bed will lift right
> off. Three people can lift it off pretty easily, but the more the better.
> Once the bed is off, replacing the pump itself is a snap. The
> lock ring
> on the pump can be removed with a flat screwdriver and a few
> bumps with the
> palm of your hand. You can then remove the gas line/hoses and electrical
> connector and the pump is ready to lift out. Once I got the pump
> out and I
> siphoned all the gas out and made sure to wipe the tank clean.
> The hole in
> the gas tank is pretty big, so unless you have really big arms,
> you can get
> in there to wipe it out. I found mine to be extremely clean
> after 138,000
> miles.
> Pump installation is the opposite of removal. The pump comes
> with a new
> gasket. The only thing you might need is a couple of hose clamps. In my
> case, mine were in excellent shape and in no need of replacing.
> Bed installation is the opposite of removal. It helps to have
> one person
> under the truck and one person standing when lining up the holes for the
> bolts. Otherwise you would be constantly getting up and down.
> Installation
> of the bed was just as quick as removal.
> Overall the job was simple. I would rate it as a job that you could
> accomplish after you got home from work one evening and be ready
> to go the
> next morning. That is, you could take 3 hours to complete the
> job and you
> wouldn’t be rushing yourself.
> One other thing to note that I don’t ever think was clearly answered is
> the question of whether or not the sending unit was part of the fuel pump
> assembly. I can definitely say that it is a part of the assembly.
> Total cost for the job: about $158 for the pump assembly from
> Napa (that’s
> with a AAA discount). Sure beats the $450 shop quote. I’ve got
> some basic
> pictures if anyone is interested in the future. I’ll try to put
> them online
> if I get a chance.
> The new fuel pump fixed my problems. My gas gauge finally works after
> 90,000+ miles of not working and the truck starts right up. No
> more turning
> the key on/off twice and having the truck crank forever before starting.
> Thanks to all those who answered questions last week.
> --Aaron—
> 95 DSRC 4x4 V6



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