RE: Code 27 (long)

From: James Calder (jCalder3@cfl.rr.com)
Date: Mon Aug 22 2005 - 20:42:56 EDT


I didn't catch the beginning of this thread but if it's about testing
injectors, I had to do this a few days ago. Even though each injector
clicked when energized, they were clogged. As suggested by Jon, I removed
the entire fuel rail and watched for injector spray as I turned over the
engine. After the 4 injector rail bolts are removed the rail comes out with
a rocking motion. I also had to free the fuel lines from the restraint
bolted on the top of the bell housing. Place a few towels under each rail
to catch the spray. I also unplugged the 12 v supply to the coil. I cycled
the key off and on a few times with no injectors installed to flush out the
rails. If you need new injectors you can get a great deal from
fiveomotorsport.com

James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Dan Kramarsky
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 8:05 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: Re: DML: Code 27 (long)

brian,

Its sounds more like a bad connection in the wiring harness than it does a
bad fuel
injector. Did you individually check each fuel injector with 12 volts DC?

I individually checked each injector with 12 volts when i wasnt sure if it
was an injector problem:

1. Relieve the fuel pressure by removing your fuel pump relay. (its in the
power
distribution panel next to your window washer bottle. ) Now start the
truck and let it
run till it stalls. Then start the truck again. It should stall again.
Try to start
her one more time. now leave the relay out of panel.

2. VERY CAREFULLY disconnect the fuel injector electrical connector from
the body of the fuel injector itself. use a tiny screwdriver to pry the
tabs up just enough to slide off the electrical connector. be careful cause
it may break. the plastic is brittle.

3. What you should see is 2 metal contacts on the fuel injector. Connect
one of the contacts to the battery (+) terminal and the other contact to
the battery (-) terminal.

  NOTE 1: ONLY HAVE THE INJECTOR ENERGIZED FOR 1 SECOND --=MAXIMUM=-- Any
more than 1 second at a time and you could burn out the coil in the
injector.

  NOTE 2: DO NOT CROSS THE JUMPER WIRES YOU ARE USING FOR THIS TEST.
If you accidently cross the two jumper wires they will immediately glow
bright red and the insulation of the wires will burn off. And you may get a
burn if you happen to be
holding the wires. When I ran the test I used 6 ft. long 18 gauge jumper
wires with
small insulated aligator clips at each end. ( Each aligator clip had the
little rubber boot on them. ) This made is somewhat safer to run the test
with. The alligator clips should be small enough to grab the electrical
contacts of the injector without slipping off the contacts.

4. You should hear a distinct, loud, "CLICK" each time you energize the
injector.
You should compare the "click" sound to the other 'good' injectors on the
engine. That
way you will know what a "good" one sounds like. Its a distinct "click"
sound. Also if
you have a free finger while your doing the test, you can put the ball of
your finger
on the injector body and 'feel' the click as well as 'hear' the click.
After a while
you will get to know what a good injector ought to be doing.

5. I would make an injector click about 10 times each. Be sure to wait a
few seconds
between each click. If you think you found an injector that is not
"clicking" each and every time you energize it, or it doesnt sound right,
there may be a problem with it.

6. BUT.... If you find no differences in the way all the injectors
"click" , then
try checking further up the wiring harness. Try checking any other
connectors in the
harness. Then check the PCM connector itself.

7. When youre done with the injector tests, put the fuel pump relay back
into the power panel, be sure to re-connect all the injectors back up, and
start the truck to get the fuel pressure back up to normal.

-dan

Dan K.
'92 Grey Dak CC, 318, 4x2, 46RH, 3.55 rear, 235/75R15, PS, PW, PB, PL, AC.

Mods: Cool air, K&N oil/air, Autolite 3924s, re-located IAT.

Future: Swap motor for a slightly modified Magnum 5.9L engine.

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