Torque to yield fasteners are not cheap. They are more costly to make than a
conventional fastener because of the addtional machining operations to make
them. It's also a far superior way of obtaining even clamping forces across a
surface. Using a torque wrench is the absoult least accurate way of
consistently tightening a fastener.
Dave Clement
99 SLT+ CC 4x4
In article <KPEDKLCMNNEIALJNGNAAOEPNCBAA.gcouriel@bellsouth.net>,
gcouriel@bellsouth.net ("Gabriel A. Couriel") writes:
>
>
> they use cheap torque-to-yield fasteners. i just picked up a set for my
> eventual manifold swap for about $6 at the stealership. i think ARP makes
> some stronger fasteners.
>
> gabriel couriel
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net]On Behalf Of Josh
> Battles
> Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2005 12:54 PM
> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> Subject: Re: DML: Plenum Gasket Replacement?
>
>
>
> On Tue, December 20, 2005 9:58 am, jon@dakota-truck.net wrote:
> >
> > Feel free to use my MPI intake install guide:
> >
> http://www.steigerperformance.com/docs/MPIIntakeManifoldInstallationGuide.pd
> f
> >
>
> Thanks!
>
> > Its oriented towards installing an MPI, but documents the procedure
> > of removing the stock manifold, and of course, re-installing the
> > stock manifold is going to be similar to installing the MPI. Its
> > a pretty straightforward process, I don't really anticipate any
> > surprises for you. You'll want to get a new intake gasket and bolt
> > kit (4897383AC), and you should probably purchase a coolant bypass
> > hose (H0063735) while you're at it, they're only $5 or so and that's
> > worth not having to tear into the motor again a couple of years down
> > the road. You can probably leave the thermostat housing attached to
> > the intake manifold to save yourself from having to buy a new t-stat
> > gasket; its not a big expense but might save you a couple of minutes. :-)
>
> Cool, thanks Jon.
>
> > I include some 5/16-18 dowels in my MPI install kit for
> > locating the manifold on the block, which helps to make sure it
> > sits down in the right place the first time so you don't have to
> > wiggle it around and disturb the gaskets and RTV, but since you
> > won't be re-using the stock bolts, you can just cut the heads off
> > of some of them and use 'em for that. Its not a requirement or
> > anything, but does help to install the intake.
>
> Why aren't the old intake bolts reused? I've always reused the bolts in the
> past. (non-dodge applications)
>
> > The cost is more expensive than it used to be, unfortunately. IIRC,
> > Mopar Performance really jacked up the cost of the manifolds a couple
> > of years ago. I don't know what the current going rate is, but you
> > could run the part numbers at Summit Racing or Mancini Racing's web
> > site aught to have the prices too. If you go with the 4bbl manifold,
> > you're basically on your own as far as an install kit goes (that's why
> > I created the install kits in the first place). If you use the 2bbl
> > manifold, Mopar Performance has an install kit for that one. If you
> > were to install the manifold on a street driven Ram, the 2bbl would
> > probably be the better choice due to its better midrange performance.
> > However, now that the prices are so much higher than they used to be,
> > I honestly don't see much bang for the buck in this area anymore,
> > especially on a heavy truck like a Ram. If it were my truck I'd just
> > R&R the beer barrel. You'd have to check around for the best and latest
> > prices, but I think that swapping to the MPI manifold would cost you
> > somewhere in the neighborhood of $450-500 when its all said and done.
>
> That's about what I figured. I don't know what she wants to do with the
> truck performance wise so I'll leave it up to her. I do know she wants to
> lower it (yay) and get some paintwork done this summer so we'll see. I'll
> pass this on to her.
>
> --
> - Josh
> www.omg-stfu.com
>
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