Good thing I used the DML instead of the FSM :) About time the body lift
came in handy for something too. It moves the steering shaft out of the way
enough, and allows visibilty through the wheelwell without removing anyting.
Highlights from the istructions.
Step 1 - 3 skipped.
Step 4 "Remove lower retaining nut from stud" - The nut and stud were so
well bonded they came out in one piece. Don't they usually call these
bolts?
Steps 5-9 skipped
Took the starter in had had it tested, they indicated it did turn but was
weak. Got a new starter.
Installed, same problem, click but no spinnng. Couldn't seem to find
voltage on the terminals connected to the starter. Traced wires back and
found a bad connection at the battery. Re-did connections. The new starter
motor does spin quite well now. Doesn't sound like it hits anything
though... The flywheel is hidden behind stuff and you can't see if the
wheel pops out or not as it's all enclosed. Need to call the auto place and
see if they've still got my starter. Something must be different with the
alignment.
-- David 94 CC Sport 4x4, 318, 5spd, Lifted with 33" BFG MT's
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terrible Tom" <SilverEightynine@aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 11:43 PM
Subject: Re: DML: 94 Dak - Click but no start - Help!
> Hey David. You don't need to pull the steering shaft. But doing so
> *does* make it easier. I've been able to wrangle the starter out of
> Christine on many occasions and never had to pull the shaft. I have a 3
> inch body lift too, so the steering shaft is longer. (more space to work
> with) That might make a difference. I keep wanting to say you have to
> pull the drivers side engine/trans/axle bracket... but i think thats not
> right. I think its that you have to pull the starter before you can
> pull the bracket. yup - that sounds better... you would be able to get
> the starter out better if you pull the drivers side fender splash sheild
> (the rubber flap) and go through the wheel well. Seemed to make for
> better access than trying to go up from above and around the exhaust
> manifold.
>
> I'd take it to a parts store (NAPA, AZ, Advance, Checker) and have them
> bench test the starter. Best way to tell if you need to replace it, or
> start looking for a wire problem.
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