Michael Maskalans wrote:
>
>
> On Dec 7, 2006, at 6:19, Jason Bleazard wrote:
>
>> Last
>> oil change, the dealership informed me that they felt my front
>> bearings need
>> replacement, for the nominal fee of $1050.
YEEEEOWCH!!
>
>
>> Is there any way to confirm that these really need to be replaced?
>
>
> The noise is certainly worth investigating.
>
> Pick up the frontend. doesn't matter whether weight is on the
> suspension or not. Spin the tire. If it feels gritty or spins too
> easily or is difficult and these symptoms are not related to the
> brakes, likely a bad bearing. If there is any wobble in any direction
> (and it's not the steering or suspension - in there is play investigate
> whethr the tire & brake rotor are moving in relation to the knuckle or
> whether the knuckle is moving in relation to the tie rdds or A arms)
> the bearing is bad.
Mike pretty much covered the basics. But I'll add that the best way to
check for play is with the wheels, brakes, and CV axles removed. That
will allow you to feel the movement and rotation of JUST the hub. When
Christine's hub failed, it was a constant grinding sound when in motion.
They are a single row ball bearing sealed unit. Good for reducing
friction, but not as durable or as strong when it comes to loads.
Tapered roller bearings and cones give much more surface for loads $100
sounds about right for the hub unit on a non-abs truck. I just sold two
hubs today for a 2000 F250 super duty diesel - $300 a pop - cost over
$600 for both front units. Damned ABS jacks the price of them up.
The price to have your hubs changed by the shop - for $1050 is total
fried bull shit on a stick. I had Christine's passenger side hub
changed (emergency repair job out of town) 4 years ago (prior to the 03
BBQ) and the total was around $425 for parts and labor and that included
a front end alignment. They jacked me on the hub, $200 for that alone -
which is what list price is. Many shops use list price when quoting the
customers - which is usually double what they are buying them from their
suppliers for.
Still - even if they charged $250 a hub, thats $500 in parts, labor to
pull them consists of pulling the wheels (12 lug nuts) pulling the
calipers (4 bolts) pulling the CV axles (2 spindle nuts and 12, 1/2 inch
thread flange bolts) and unbolting the hubs from the spindles (8 bolts).
The whole job, in a shop, with the right tools and all the parts, should
take a mechanic no more than 3 hours TOPS start to finish.
Assuming they have a higher labor rate of say $75 an hour (which they
will bill you the "book hour" rate for repair jobs - it could take the
guy 30 minutes - but the labor books will still bill ya for 3 hours
work, if thats what they have down for the job).. thats $225 labor, $500
parts, for a very high estimate of $725+tax. Whatever shop that is I
would suggest you stop using them :) Anyone who quotes such an
outlandish price for a fairly simple repair... isn't to be trusted.
-- ------------------------------------------------------------- "The word, is no. I am therefore going anyway." - James T. Kirk75 Honda CL360, 89 Dakota, 89 Dakota 4x4, 95 Dakota 4x4, 96 Neon, 01 Ram 4x4 http://members.aol.com/silvereightynine/ AIM & Yahoo: SilverEightynine
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Mon Jan 01 2007 - 14:53:53 EST