RE: RE: Anyone Using The "Power Wire"??

From: Bernd D. Ratsch (bernd@dodgetrucks.org)
Date: Tue May 08 2007 - 16:57:28 EDT


I also know from factual data and knowledge of the PCM function that they
CAN handle some leadway - 4K-6K ohm resistor inline works rather well. It
sends the PCM the same fluctuating signal but about 20 degrees cooler. It
doesn't make the fuel curve run any large amounts of extra fuel (as in
richer) but does cure the hot-running bog that these engines exhibit. Can
it save on fuel - yes...in some cases. Can it give you better times -
yes...in some cases. Do I have data on this - Yes. Does it work for
everyone - No.

ALL Mopar PCM's are set to run rich anyway (safety buffer for the engine)
but they will lean out quite a bit when the sensed IAT signal is above 125 -
which is not uncommon. This trick works well but for $55...that's a bit
much IMO.

As for the claim of leaning it out - uhhhh...I agree - that's not true at
all. Again, under WOT, Mopar programmed the fuel curve to run RICH. If you
cool down the IAT signal, it will run richer (how much you cool it down can
range from 1%-20%). If you factor this into the Injector PW% calculation,
it's negligable. Does it affect timing though...Yup. That's where this mod
comes into play.

- Bernd

-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Block [mailto:bpracing@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 3:41 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: DML: RE: Anyone Using The "Power Wire"??

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kyle Kozubal
>
> Anyone using, or has use, the Power Wire from Air Ram?
>
> http://airram.com
>
> http://airram.com/product.php?productid=21
>
> Kyle
>
>
> 2004 Dakota Quad Cab SLT
> 4.7L V8, Auto, 4x4, 3.55 Gears

While I admit I hadn't heard of this until now, I did look up the claims for
this product. In my opinion, it is not only BS, at $55 it is overpriced
BS!

If you really think you need to lower the temp reading of your IAT sensor,
the cheap easy way is to either plug your present sensor hole and move the
sensor or buy another sensor at your local auto parts store. Then splice in
a couple wires to extend the reach of your current connector leads and place
the new sensor in a cooler place such as just behind your grille. Presto,
an instant 20+ degrees cooler reading.

However, this is not likely to improve your horsepower or mileage. Why?
Glad you asked. First of all, the factory is not inclined to allow your
air/fuel ratio to go lean during wide open throttle (WOT) for durability and
warranty reasons. Under most weather conditions at WOT your A/F ratio is
set to the rich side anyway. In this case, even richer is not better!

How do I know? While I primarily race a 318 Dakota, I also race my 4.7 Jeep
Grand Cherokee in a different class and won a season championship with it
last year. I use a scanner, an A/F ratio gauge and my time slips to
evaluate any and all changes I make to these vehicles. They do NOT need to
run richer! That only slows them down.

If you're still interested, keep reading while I debunk some of the claims
for this product. The following is the product description with my
comments inset.
--------------
"Description:
PLUG & PLAY 8-10RWHP in less than 60 seconds. The POWER WIRE will be the
quickest and easiest mod you have ever installed. Reports of .5 to 1 MPG
have been reported under easy driving conditions."

>> Reports? By whom? What were their qualifications?

Details:
<snip>

"The =POWER=WIRE=> Is a PLUG & PLAY mod that will give you 8-10HP with less
than 1 minute to install. Advancing the timing for increased HP is an old
trick that has been used for many years. With the newer computer controlled
vehicles there are no distributors to adjust, so to gain additional timing
advance we need to alter the signal from the air temperature sensor for the
desired advance. Your PCM uses the Air Temperature sensors to help control
timing and Air/Fuel ratio."

>> Well that was partial BS. According to my scanner, I've never seen an
increase in WOT timing advance from different temperature readings at the
IAT sensor.

"Your O2 sensors keep your Air Fuel ratio nailed to 14.75:1 at all throttle
positions except Wide Open Throttle (WOT) so the POWER WIRE can NOT cause
you to run rich during normal driving because no matter what the AFR will be
14.75:1. For this reason The Power Wire has been reported to add 1-2MPG
increase when driven lightly."

>> What? Their first sentence is correct...the O2 sensor will maintain the
proper A/F ratio at less than WOT. So....just how does an increase of 1-2
MPG occur? Oh wait, that was "reported"...not claimed by the manufacturer.

"But at WOT the Power Wire will add approximately 2.5&#37; at WOT. When your
at WOT you are more concerned with HP than MPG at that moment in time and
while passing an additional 8-10RWHP is exactly what your looking for."

>> Well, not only is their grammar and spelling lacking, I don't know what
numbers they were really spouting there. I copied that from their web site.
I would like to know where they got the "8-10RWHP" numbers from though.
Ever notice that most every trick product of the day claims 8-10 horsepower?
Hmmm.

<snip>
"When installed the POWER WIRE alters the signal to your PCM making it think
the intake air temperature is 20 degrees cooler than the actual temperature
at "ALL TIMES". This timing advance is worth approximately 8-10RWHP."

>> Again, I don't see a "timing advance" on my scanner and, actually, ain't
no way a timing advance on one of these engines will result in 8-10
horsepower! .

"The POWER WIRE has been reported to richen the AFR by one full point at
WOT,"

>> Again, a "reported" claim. Hell, I could claim anything and if it suited
their purpose (to sell their product) would they use that too? Hey POWER
WIRE, my butt dyno says your junk is worth 20 horsepower! Yippee!! Print
it!

"this is good if you have long tube headers and other mods that tend to lean
out your AFR at WOT. Installing the POWER WIRE can help cure this lean
condition."

>> While in theory that statement seems to make sense, and would apply if
you were using a carb, it doesn't necessarily apply to a factory FI engine.
I do have significant mods on my 318 Dak (heads, cam, headers, intake,
throttle body, gears...) and I, along with other NHRA Stock Eliminator
Dakota racers I know, still run too rich on stock size fuel injectors. We
run quicker and faster when we lean it out some!

"On our G-Tech Pro Comp meter it showed a 10HP increase on a 2003 4.7L."

>> Oh yeah, I'm impressed now. I could make one show anything I wanted.

Anyway, that's my opinion on the product and worth what you paid for it.
Let the flames begin. LOL

While I'd like to save folks from wasting their money, it is, after all,
*your* money. Spend it as you see fit. :-)

Ray
2000 Jeep GC, 4x4, 4.7L - 15.40 @ 86 mph. Stock + K&N FIPK.
1992 Dakota, 5.2L - 12.98 @ 105 mph. Street driven, full single exhaust,
3700 lbs.
http://www.dragtruk.com/ENTRIES/20KM1FD2KWBP.html



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