hi all,
truck sat for 2hrs. between errands, i then started it up and after 3 secs. of idle, i gassed it up 'cause like the sound of my own exhaust. ;-)
after that the check engine light appeared , shut 'er down and checked it.
it was code 41, which i think is 'alternator field winding'.
any idea?
Dan K.
Vehicle: 1992 Dakota Club Cab LE Color: Two-tone silver Engine: 5.2L EFI
Options: A/C, Cruise, PS, PB, PW, PL, 3.55 gear, 46RH, tinted rear slider.
Mods: Home-brew CAI, March Performance pulley set, K&N Filters, 180* T-stat, relocated IAT, DynoMax Super Turbo Exhaust Kit, Hi-Flow Cat, Autolite plugs & wires, Gates hoses & belts.
Photo: http://static.flickr.com/42/84856795_c18903d10f.jpg
Whats Next: Mopar Performance PCM, 3.91 rear gear with LSD, electric fan, KYB shocks, re-paint body, 2/4 drop kit.
--- On Sat, 5/31/08, DML Digest <owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net> wrote:
> From: DML Digest <owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net>
> Subject: DML Digest V5 #3404
> To: dakota-truck-digest@twistedbits.net
> Date: Saturday, May 31, 2008, 9:00 PM
> DML Digest Sunday, June 1 2008 Volume
> 05 : Number 3404
>
>
>
> The subjects discussed in this digest are:
> ==========
> Re: DML: It's a sad day...For Sale: 1997 Dodge Dakota
> DML: ot help 94 escort
> RE: DML: It's a sad day...For Sale: 1997 Dodge Dakota
> Re: DML: ot help 94 escort
> Re: DML: ot help 94 escort
> DML: RE: ot help 94 escort
> Re: DML: tap, tap, SCREEEECH!
> Re: DML: ot help 94 escort
> DML: Parts for Sale
> DML: Parts for Sale - Magnum V6
> DML: coolant troubles
> Re: DML: tap, tap, SCREEEECH!
> Re: DML: coolant troubles
> Re: DML: coolant troubles
> DML: RE: coolant troubles
> RE: DML: It's a sad day...For Sale: 1997 Dodge Dakota
> RE: DML: coolant troubles
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 01:16:32 -0700
> From: "Dustin Williams"
> <dustinewilliams@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: DML: It's a sad day...For Sale: 1997 Dodge
> Dakota
>
> That just wouldn't seem right for a Dodge dealer
> mechanic to be
> driving an import....go with the Jeep.
>
> On Fri, May 30, 2008 at 8:52 PM, Bernd D. Ratsch
> <bernd@dodgetrucks.org> wrote:
> >
> > Either an import "econobox" or a Jeep
> (leaning towards the Jeep Wrangler).
> >
> > - Bernd
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Steve Preston [mailto:steveophonic@yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 7:42 PM
> > To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> > Subject: Re: DML: It's a sad day...For Sale: 1997
> Dodge Dakota
> >
> >
> > What are you planning to replace it with,Bernd?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Steve P.
> > --- "Bernd D. Ratsch"
> <bernd@dodgetrucks.org> wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> Yes, it's a sad day but I have to do it....
> >>
> >> 1997 Dodge Dakota SLT (V6/5spd)
> >>
> >> This has been a project truck since it was new (I
> am
> >> the original owner with clean title).
> Unfortunately,
> >> I don't have the time to finish up the V8
> conversion
> >> and had to scrap the engine project. Truck is
> >> missing the original engine as it was beyond
> >> rebuilding.
> >>
> >> Extra's included:
> >> Reflexxion Cowl Hood
> >> APEXi SAFC-II Fuel Controller
> >> Custom Flashed PCM (Engine Controller)
> >> Hotchkis Front/Rear Springs and Coils
> >> Quickor SwayBars (1-1/4" Front and
> 1-1/8" Rear)
> >> KYB "MonoMAX" Shocks (Front and Rear)
> >> Modified Factory Front End-Links (Poly Bushings)
> >> Energy Suspension "Flipped" Rear
> End-Links (Poly
> >> Bushings)
> >> Dana Heavy-Duty Limited-Slip Differential: 3.55:1
> >> Hotchkis Front/Rear Springs (Coil/Leaf)
> >> Toyo Proxes ST 255/40-18 Tires
> >> Enkei "RT6" 18"x8.5" Rims
> >> Cerullo XR Custom Upholstered Seats
> >> Simpson 4-Point Harness (w/Steel mounting plate
> >> under body)
> >> Floor/Cab Reinforcement Bar
> >> 2006 Dodge Viper Steering Wheel (No Airbag)
> >> 2006 Dodge Viper Shift Knob (Mopar Accessory)
> >> Infinity Reference Series Component Speakers
> (Front)
> >>
> >> JBL Audio Rear 6.5" Speakers
> >> MTX Thunderform Dual 10" Subwoofers (in
> enclosure)
> >> Clarion 400W Amp - Drives the Front/Rear Speakers
> >> HiFonics 250W Amp - Drives Sub-Box
> >> Mopar Billet Fuel Door
> >> LED Tail lamps
> >> Halogen Backup Lamps
> >> Tinted Windows - Side, Rear, and Slider
> >>
> >> All this truck needs is a new engine (Either V6 or
> >> V8 conversion). If you want to put in a V6, I
> still
> >> have the custom built heads, camshaft, carillo
> rods,
> >> and custom ground crank.
> >>
> >> I have invested over $8000 in modifications in
> this
> >> truck but have to let it go. I am asking $3500 for
> >> the entire vehicle - I will not part it out.
> >> You can see the entire buildup here:
> >> http://www.dodgetrucks.org/fasstdak
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 08:52:24 -0500
> From: ffastje <ffastje@cox.net>
> Subject: DML: ot help 94 escort
>
> wife car would not start after shut off . cleaned battery
> and terminals.
> still no start I think i can hear the starter click but im
> not sure. im
> going to work on getting it out and have it tested. is
> there any thing
> else i should look at TIA
> ps Who's funny idea was to jam all that shit under the
> hood
>
> - --
> ffastje@cox.net
> ffastje@gmail.com
> 1999 dakota cc 3.9L 4X4
> 57,332 miles
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 09:22:23 -0500
> From: "Bernd D. Ratsch"
> <bernd@dodgetrucks.org>
> Subject: RE: DML: It's a sad day...For Sale: 1997 Dodge
> Dakota
>
> That's what I'm thinking....
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: Dustin Williams [mailto:dustinewilliams@gmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 3:17 AM
> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> Subject: Re: DML: It's a sad day...For Sale: 1997 Dodge
> Dakota
>
>
> That just wouldn't seem right for a Dodge dealer
> mechanic to be
> driving an import....go with the Jeep.
>
> On Fri, May 30, 2008 at 8:52 PM, Bernd D. Ratsch
> <bernd@dodgetrucks.org>
> wrote:
> >
> > Either an import "econobox" or a Jeep
> (leaning towards the Jeep Wrangler).
> >
> > - Bernd
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Steve Preston [mailto:steveophonic@yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 7:42 PM
> > To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> > Subject: Re: DML: It's a sad day...For Sale: 1997
> Dodge Dakota
> >
> >
> > What are you planning to replace it with,Bernd?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Steve P.
> > --- "Bernd D. Ratsch"
> <bernd@dodgetrucks.org> wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> Yes, it's a sad day but I have to do it....
> >>
> >> 1997 Dodge Dakota SLT (V6/5spd)
> >>
> >> This has been a project truck since it was new (I
> am
> >> the original owner with clean title).
> Unfortunately,
> >> I don't have the time to finish up the V8
> conversion
> >> and had to scrap the engine project. Truck is
> >> missing the original engine as it was beyond
> >> rebuilding.
> >>
> >> Extra's included:
> >> Reflexxion Cowl Hood
> >> APEXi SAFC-II Fuel Controller
> >> Custom Flashed PCM (Engine Controller)
> >> Hotchkis Front/Rear Springs and Coils
> >> Quickor SwayBars (1-1/4" Front and
> 1-1/8" Rear)
> >> KYB "MonoMAX" Shocks (Front and Rear)
> >> Modified Factory Front End-Links (Poly Bushings)
> >> Energy Suspension "Flipped" Rear
> End-Links (Poly
> >> Bushings)
> >> Dana Heavy-Duty Limited-Slip Differential: 3.55:1
> >> Hotchkis Front/Rear Springs (Coil/Leaf)
> >> Toyo Proxes ST 255/40-18 Tires
> >> Enkei "RT6" 18"x8.5" Rims
> >> Cerullo XR Custom Upholstered Seats
> >> Simpson 4-Point Harness (w/Steel mounting plate
> >> under body)
> >> Floor/Cab Reinforcement Bar
> >> 2006 Dodge Viper Steering Wheel (No Airbag)
> >> 2006 Dodge Viper Shift Knob (Mopar Accessory)
> >> Infinity Reference Series Component Speakers
> (Front)
> >>
> >> JBL Audio Rear 6.5" Speakers
> >> MTX Thunderform Dual 10" Subwoofers (in
> enclosure)
> >> Clarion 400W Amp - Drives the Front/Rear Speakers
> >> HiFonics 250W Amp - Drives Sub-Box
> >> Mopar Billet Fuel Door
> >> LED Tail lamps
> >> Halogen Backup Lamps
> >> Tinted Windows - Side, Rear, and Slider
> >>
> >> All this truck needs is a new engine (Either V6 or
> >> V8 conversion). If you want to put in a V6, I
> still
> >> have the custom built heads, camshaft, carillo
> rods,
> >> and custom ground crank.
> >>
> >> I have invested over $8000 in modifications in
> this
> >> truck but have to let it go. I am asking $3500 for
> >> the entire vehicle - I will not part it out.
> >> You can see the entire buildup here:
> >> http://www.dodgetrucks.org/fasstdak
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 10:27:39 -0400
> From: "Andy Levy" <andy.levy@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: DML: ot help 94 escort
>
> On Sat, May 31, 2008 at 9:52 AM, ffastje
> <ffastje@cox.net> wrote:
> >
> > wife car would not start after shut off . cleaned
> battery and terminals.
> > still no start I think i can hear the starter click
> but im not sure. im
> > going to work on getting it out and have it tested.
> is there any thing else
> > i should look at TIA
>
> Checked all the fuses?
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 11:55:12 -0500
> From: Terrible Tom <silvereightynine@aol.com>
> Subject: Re: DML: ot help 94 escort
>
> ffastje wrote:
>
> >
> > wife car would not start after shut off . cleaned
> battery and terminals.
> > still no start I think i can hear the starter click
> but im not sure. im
> > going to work on getting it out and have it tested.
> is there any thing
> > else i should look at TIA
> > ps Who's funny idea was to jam all that shit under
> the hood
> >
>
> I dont remember where the starter is mounted on the Escort
> engine...
> probably up front... I had a 94 Escort wagon but I never
> had to mess
> with the starter.
>
> On the Neon however I had an intermittant problem where it
> would not
> start. Then it would start... ended up being that the
> ground cable had
> rubbed away on the side of the engine block over the years
> and there was
> something like 3 strands of copper left giving it ground...
> never saw
> the problem because the insulation was still holding the
> cable together
> and it was worn away on the back side...
>
> I changed the cables and cleaned up all the connections -
> good as new.
>
> If you have checked the connections and the cables, and you
> can hear the
> starter solenoid click - its a safe assumption to say the
> starter itself
> is probably shot. However there can be other things...
> ignition switch,
> bad battery, low battery charge, etc
>
>
>
> - --
> -
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> The Mopar Enthusiasts Crunch Team http://tinyurl.com/32g3qj
> -
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> An ordinary person spends his life avoiding tense
> situations!
> Repo man spends his life gettin' IN tense situations!!!
> -
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> TerribleTom - AIM & Yahoo: silvereightynine
> http://www.myspace.com/silvereightynine
> http://members.aol.com/silvereightynine
> -
> ------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 12:38:03 -0500
> From: "Brian" <hskr@cox.net>
> Subject: DML: RE: ot help 94 escort
>
> You sure it's not the battery itself?? Had a problem
> with a '94 T-bird with
> the 3.8 where if it sat for more than 2-3 days without
> driving it, it
> wouldn't want to start. If I shorted out the terminals
> on the starter to
> bypass the solenoid relay it would spin up fine. Ended up
> finding a bad
> power wire from the battery to the starter. It didn't
> look bad, but after I
> replaced it, and cleaned the starter, I had no further
> problems.
>
> brian cropp
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf
> Of ffastje
> Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 8:52 AM
> To: DML
> Subject: DML: ot help 94 escort
>
>
> wife car would not start after shut off . cleaned battery
> and terminals.
> still no start I think i can hear the starter click but im
> not sure. im
> going to work on getting it out and have it tested. is
> there any thing
> else i should look at TIA
> ps Who's funny idea was to jam all that shit under the
> hood
>
> - --
> ffastje@cox.net
> ffastje@gmail.com
> 1999 dakota cc 3.9L 4X4
> 57,332 miles
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.24.4/1475 - Release
> Date: 5/30/2008
> 2:53 PM
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 11:53:35 -0700
> From: Eric <huffy340@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: DML: tap, tap, SCREEEECH!
>
> > I'll never understand why people tie their email
> to their ISP.
> > They're holding you hostage. Yahoo! Mail! is!
> free!, GMail is
> > free
>
> You can pop with Gmail, too, so it's not like you have
> to use the
> webclient. To get a copy of your own messages, you migh
> tneed
> to use the smtp relay for your ISP (though, some ISPs may
> not
> allow you to specify the gmail address as your return).
>
> And you get a free archive, easily searchable with
> google. The DML already has a good search engine, so the
> feature
> is more useful on other mailing lists.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 12:04:48 -0700
> From: "Dustin Williams"
> <dustinewilliams@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: DML: ot help 94 escort
>
> I'd check the battery first.
>
> On Sat, May 31, 2008 at 9:55 AM, Terrible Tom
> <silvereightynine@aol.com> wrote:
> >
> > ffastje wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> wife car would not start after shut off . cleaned
> battery and terminals.
> >> still no start I think i can hear the starter
> click but im not sure. im
> >> going to work on getting it out and have it
> tested. is there any thing else
> >> i should look at TIA
> >> ps Who's funny idea was to jam all that shit
> under the hood
> >>
> >
> > I dont remember where the starter is mounted on the
> Escort engine...
> > probably up front... I had a 94 Escort wagon but I
> never had to mess with
> > the starter.
> >
> > On the Neon however I had an intermittant problem
> where it would not start.
> > Then it would start... ended up being that the ground
> cable had rubbed away
> > on the side of the engine block over the years and
> there was something like
> > 3 strands of copper left giving it ground... never saw
> the problem because
> > the insulation was still holding the cable together
> and it was worn away on
> > the back side...
> >
> > I changed the cables and cleaned up all the
> connections - good as new.
> >
> > If you have checked the connections and the cables,
> and you can hear the
> > starter solenoid click - its a safe assumption to say
> the starter itself is
> > probably shot. However there can be other things...
> ignition switch, bad
> > battery, low battery charge, etc
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> > The Mopar Enthusiasts Crunch Team
> http://tinyurl.com/32g3qj
> >
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> > An ordinary person spends his life avoiding tense
> situations!
> > Repo man spends his life gettin' IN tense
> situations!!!
> >
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> > TerribleTom - AIM & Yahoo: silvereightynine
> > http://www.myspace.com/silvereightynine
> > http://members.aol.com/silvereightynine
> >
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 14:25:43 -0500
> From: "Bernd D. Ratsch"
> <bernd@dodgetrucks.org>
> Subject: DML: Parts for Sale
>
> Need to get rid of these items as well...
>
> CompCams Dodge Magnum 5.2/5.9L Camshaft (#CCA-20-602-9):
> $250
> Crane Cams Timing Chain Set (Dbl-Row/True Roller): $35
> Napa "High Performance" Series Clutch Set for
> 5.9L (Disc/Pressure
> Plate/Tool): $150
>
> These are all brand new in the box.
>
> Email me offlist if you're interested. I accept PayPal
> and will ship via
> UPS ground.
>
> - - Bernd
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 14:43:02 -0500
> From: "Bernd D. Ratsch"
> <bernd@dodgetrucks.org>
> Subject: DML: Parts for Sale - Magnum V6
>
> CompCams Dodge Magnum V6 Camshaft (KRC 200-V6):
> 200/206-504/512 112 - $100
> Custom Ported Heads w/Mopar Performance Stainless Valves
> (set): $100 +
> Shipping
> Set of 6 I-Beam Rods (Carillo): $100 + Shipping
>
> Yes, those are the main "guts" from my old V6.
> They are used but in
> excellent shape. I'd recommend that the heads be
> cleaned up but they came
> off of my V6 when it was still running. They've been
> coated in WD-40 to
> prevent rust and have been cleaned up in the solvent tank
> prior to that.
>
> The rods will fit the V6 crank but you'll need to
> enlarge the journals to V8
> size (not a big issue at all - plus, better bearing surface
> area).
>
> - - Bernd
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 23:35:39 +0000 (UTC)
> From: jherrman@zoominternet.net
> Subject: DML: coolant troubles
>
> I usually lurk here and find the list archives an
> incredibly valuable
> resource. I am now posting after a frustrating few days
> after a
> coolant flush.
>
> I have a 2003 4.7 V-8, with 61000 miles. It came with the
> long-life
> orange coolant, and the maintenance schedule recommends
> changing it at
> five years or 100000 miles. I just hit five years and took
> it to a
> local mechanic to have the coolant flushed. Everything
> seemed fine,
> and the next day I drove 75 miles without noticing any
> irregularities
> on the temp gauge---it always sits just below the mid-line
> when warmed
> up. Later, after it had been sitting in the garage, I
> noticed a small
> pool (maybe 8oz or so) of antifreeze under the front
> driver-side of
> car. I cleaned it up and also cleaned antifreeze from the
> bottom of
> the chassis. The coolant reservoir filler dipstick reads
> full. I
> wasn't sure wether perhaps the mechanic just did a
> messy job draining
> the system, or I had a leak. So today I drove about ten
> miles; while
> stopped on the road I noticed more leaking antifreeze as I
> was heading
> home. Just as I got home the temp gauge started getting a
> little hotter
> than normal (moving slowly past the center), and by the
> time I got
> home there was leaked coolant visibly smoking from under
> the hood. I
> opened the hood and saw plenty of coolant (not enough to
> really pool
> anywhere, but everything on the driver's side was wet
> with it) from
> the top of the engine compartment down. As I cleaned it up
> I noticed
> the radiator cap was loose, and I tightened it. I then went
> for a
> short test drive to see if that fixed the leak. The leak is
> fixed (at
> least as far as I can see; I'll see if there's
> anything under the
> truck in the morning), but now as soon as it warms up the
> temperature
> begins rising very quickly. On a short test drive around
> the
> neighborhood I had to shut it off when I got the
> "consult gauges"
> warning, and after it cooled I drove slowly back home (less
> than a
> mile, I had to stop another time for the "consult
> gauge" warning). I
> walked to get a new radiator cap and installed it, but the
> car still
> seems to want to overheat as soon as it warms up. I noticed
> when I
> replace the cap that there's no visible coolant in that
> part of the
> radiator hose, and when the engine warms up the hose feels
> cool on the
> radiator side of the cap, but hot on the engine side.
>
> As you might guess I'm no expert here. I can imagine
> the mechanic
> forgot to tighten the radiator cap, but everything was fine
> for 75
> miles after the flush. Would the cap loosen and leak on
> it's own just
> a day after a flush? Would it allow air into the system and
> thus cause
> the overheating issue I'm now having? I'm short on
> time to
> troubleshoot and the truck is my daily driver. I can't
> decide whether
> I should follow the FSM procedure to bleed air and add
> coolant and see
> if that fixes it, or have it towed in and checked out by
> someone else,
> whether to the mechanic who did the flush or the dealer.
>
> I would be grateful for any thoughts or advice.
>
> Jud Herrman
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 17:21:52 -0700
> From: "Dustin Williams"
> <dustinewilliams@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: DML: tap, tap, SCREEEECH!
>
> I recently set up a google group for my extended family and
> one cool
> feature is that groups with out good archives can use
> google for one.
>
>
>
> On 5/31/08, Eric <huffy340@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> I'll never understand why people tie their
> email to their ISP.
> >> They're holding you hostage. Yahoo! Mail! is!
> free!, GMail is
> >> free
> >
> > You can pop with Gmail, too, so it's not like you
> have to use the
> > webclient. To get a copy of your own messages, you
> migh tneed
> > to use the smtp relay for your ISP (though, some ISPs
> may not
> > allow you to specify the gmail address as your
> return).
> >
> > And you get a free archive, easily searchable with
> > google. The DML already has a good search engine, so
> the feature
> > is more useful on other mailing lists.
> >
> >
>
> - --
> Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 20:16:45 -0500
> From: Terrible Tom <silvereightynine@aol.com>
> Subject: Re: DML: coolant troubles
>
> jherrman@zoominternet.net wrote:
>
> > I usually lurk here and find the list archives an
> incredibly valuable
> > resource. I am now posting after a frustrating few
> days after a
> > coolant flush.
> >
> > I have a 2003 4.7 V-8, with 61000 miles. It came with
> the long-life
> > orange coolant, and the maintenance schedule
> recommends changing it at
> > five years or 100000 miles. I just hit five years and
> took it to a
> > local mechanic to have the coolant flushed. Everything
> seemed fine,
> > and the next day I drove 75 miles without noticing any
> irregularities
> > on the temp gauge---it always sits just below the
> mid-line when warmed
> > up. Later, after it had been sitting in the garage, I
> noticed a small
> > pool (maybe 8oz or so) of antifreeze under the front
> driver-side of
> > car. I cleaned it up and also cleaned antifreeze from
> the bottom of
> > the chassis. The coolant reservoir filler dipstick
> reads full. I
> > wasn't sure wether perhaps the mechanic just did a
> messy job draining
> > the system, or I had a leak. So today I drove about
> ten miles; while
> > stopped on the road I noticed more leaking antifreeze
> as I was heading
> > home. Just as I got home the temp gauge started
> getting a little hotter
> > than normal (moving slowly past the center), and by
> the time I got
> > home there was leaked coolant visibly smoking from
> under the hood. I
> > opened the hood and saw plenty of coolant (not enough
> to really pool
> > anywhere, but everything on the driver's side was
> wet with it) from
> > the top of the engine compartment down. As I cleaned
> it up I noticed
> > the radiator cap was loose, and I tightened it. I then
> went for a
> > short test drive to see if that fixed the leak. The
> leak is fixed (at
> > least as far as I can see; I'll see if there's
> anything under the
> > truck in the morning), but now as soon as it warms up
> the temperature
> > begins rising very quickly. On a short test drive
> around the
> > neighborhood I had to shut it off when I got the
> "consult gauges"
> > warning, and after it cooled I drove slowly back home
> (less than a
> > mile, I had to stop another time for the "consult
> gauge" warning). I
> > walked to get a new radiator cap and installed it, but
> the car still
> > seems to want to overheat as soon as it warms up. I
> noticed when I
> > replace the cap that there's no visible coolant in
> that part of the
> > radiator hose, and when the engine warms up the hose
> feels cool on the
> > radiator side of the cap, but hot on the engine side.
> >
> > As you might guess I'm no expert here. I can
> imagine the mechanic
> > forgot to tighten the radiator cap, but everything was
> fine for 75
> > miles after the flush. Would the cap loosen and leak
> on it's own just
> > a day after a flush? Would it allow air into the
> system and thus cause
> > the overheating issue I'm now having? I'm
> short on time to
> > troubleshoot and the truck is my daily driver. I
> can't decide whether
> > I should follow the FSM procedure to bleed air and add
> coolant and see
> > if that fixes it, or have it towed in and checked out
> by someone else,
> > whether to the mechanic who did the flush or the
> dealer.
> >
> > I would be grateful for any thoughts or advice.
> >
> > Jud Herrman
> >
>
> well first thing first - did you add any coolant to it at
> all since this
> all started? I get the feeling you have not. Thats the
> first thing you
> need to do before you drive it anymore. It sounds like
> you're driving
> with it very low on coolant. You will cause lots of
> not-nice damage if
> coolant is not added and you continue to drive.
>
> It might be worth taking it back to the shop that did the
> flush and
> raising a little hell to see if it will get you anything.
> If you dont
> trust them anymore - take it somewhere else.
>
> - --
> -
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> The Mopar Enthusiasts Crunch Team http://tinyurl.com/32g3qj
> -
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> An ordinary person spends his life avoiding tense
> situations!
> Repo man spends his life gettin' IN tense situations!!!
> -
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> TerribleTom - AIM & Yahoo: silvereightynine
> http://www.myspace.com/silvereightynine
> http://members.aol.com/silvereightynine
> -
> ------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 01:54:30 +0000 (UTC)
> From: jherrman@zoominternet.net
> Subject: Re: DML: coolant troubles
>
> On Sat, 31 May 2008 21:22:26 -0400, Terrible Tom
> <silvereightynine@aol.com> wrote:
>
> > well first thing first - did you add any coolant to it
> at all since this
> > all started? I get the feeling you have not. Thats
> the first thing you
> > need to do before you drive it anymore. It sounds
> like you're driving
> > with it very low on coolant. You will cause lots of
> not-nice damage if
> > coolant is not added and you continue to drive.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> I haven't added any coolant, because the overflow tank
> still shows
> full. But I'm not driving it until I do. Once the local
> supply store
> opens on Monday (the only place within walking distance), I
> will top
> off the radiator and follow the FSM procedure for purging
> air. Then
> maybe I can drive to a shop, instead of having it towed.
>
> What I don't get is how the temp gauge would read fine
> for 75 miles,
> presumably with a loose radiator cap (unless somehow the
> cap came
> loose itself a day later) and then all of these overheating
> symptoms
> appear a day later. Is it conceivable that it took that
> long to boil
> out enough coolant to cause a problem?
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 20:56:11 -0500
> From: "Rick Barnes" <rascal@scrtc.com>
> Subject: DML: RE: coolant troubles
>
> Sounds like a stuck thermostat
>
> Rascal
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf
> Of
> jherrman@zoominternet.net
> Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 6:36 PM
> To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
> Subject: DML: coolant troubles
>
>
>
> I usually lurk here and find the list archives an
> incredibly valuable
> resource. I am now posting after a frustrating few days
> after a
> coolant flush.
>
> I have a 2003 4.7 V-8, with 61000 miles. It came with the
> long-life
> orange coolant, and the maintenance schedule recommends
> changing it at
> five years or 100000 miles. I just hit five years and took
> it to a
> local mechanic to have the coolant flushed. Everything
> seemed fine,
> and the next day I drove 75 miles without noticing any
> irregularities
> on the temp gauge---it always sits just below the mid-line
> when warmed
> up. Later, after it had been sitting in the garage, I
> noticed a small
> pool (maybe 8oz or so) of antifreeze under the front
> driver-side of
> car. I cleaned it up and also cleaned antifreeze from the
> bottom of
> the chassis. The coolant reservoir filler dipstick reads
> full. I
> wasn't sure wether perhaps the mechanic just did a
> messy job draining
> the system, or I had a leak. So today I drove about ten
> miles; while
> stopped on the road I noticed more leaking antifreeze as I
> was heading
> home. Just as I got home the temp gauge started getting a
> little hotter
> than normal (moving slowly past the center), and by the
> time I got
> home there was leaked coolant visibly smoking from under
> the hood. I
> opened the hood and saw plenty of coolant (not enough to
> really pool
> anywhere, but everything on the driver's side was wet
> with it) from
> the top of the engine compartment down. As I cleaned it up
> I noticed
> the radiator cap was loose, and I tightened it. I then went
> for a
> short test drive to see if that fixed the leak. The leak is
> fixed (at
> least as far as I can see; I'll see if there's
> anything under the
> truck in the morning), but now as soon as it warms up the
> temperature
> begins rising very quickly. On a short test drive around
> the
> neighborhood I had to shut it off when I got the
> "consult gauges"
> warning, and after it cooled I drove slowly back home (less
> than a
> mile, I had to stop another time for the "consult
> gauge" warning). I
> walked to get a new radiator cap and installed it, but the
> car still
> seems to want to overheat as soon as it warms up. I noticed
> when I
> replace the cap that there's no visible coolant in that
> part of the
> radiator hose, and when the engine warms up the hose feels
> cool on the
> radiator side of the cap, but hot on the engine side.
>
> As you might guess I'm no expert here. I can imagine
> the mechanic
> forgot to tighten the radiator cap, but everything was fine
> for 75
> miles after the flush. Would the cap loosen and leak on
> it's own just
> a day after a flush? Would it allow air into the system and
> thus cause
> the overheating issue I'm now having? I'm short on
> time to
> troubleshoot and the truck is my daily driver. I can't
> decide whether
> I should follow the FSM procedure to bleed air and add
> coolant and see
> if that fixes it, or have it towed in and checked out by
> someone else,
> whether to the mechanic who did the flush or the dealer.
>
> I would be grateful for any thoughts or advice.
>
> Jud Herrman
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message
> Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (4.0.0.26 - 10.075.002).
> http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message
> Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (4.0.0.26 - 10.075.002).
> http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 19:54:14 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Steve Preston <steveophonic@yahoo.com>
> Subject: RE: DML: It's a sad day...For Sale: 1997 Dodge
> Dakota
>
> I replaced mine with an '07 QC Ram,346 c.i.,with two
> plugs per piston. I've been averaging 16 mpg.
> That's
> about what my 4.7 Dak got. Still hurts to put $75-80
> in the tank each time.....
>
> Thanks!
>
> Steve P.
>
>
> - --- "Bernd D. Ratsch"
> <bernd@dodgetrucks.org> wrote:
>
> >
> > That's what I'm thinking....
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dustin Williams
> > [mailto:dustinewilliams@gmail.com]
> > Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 3:17 AM
> > To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> > Subject: Re: DML: It's a sad day...For Sale: 1997
> > Dodge Dakota
> >
> >
> > That just wouldn't seem right for a Dodge dealer
> > mechanic to be
> > driving an import....go with the Jeep.
> >
> > On Fri, May 30, 2008 at 8:52 PM, Bernd D. Ratsch
> > <bernd@dodgetrucks.org>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Either an import "econobox" or a Jeep
> (leaning
> > towards the Jeep Wrangler).
> > >
> > > - Bernd
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Steve Preston
> > [mailto:steveophonic@yahoo.com]
> > > Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 7:42 PM
> > > To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> > > Subject: Re: DML: It's a sad day...For Sale:
> 1997
> > Dodge Dakota
> > >
> > >
> > > What are you planning to replace it with,Bernd?
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > Steve P.
> > > --- "Bernd D. Ratsch"
> <bernd@dodgetrucks.org>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >>
> > >> Yes, it's a sad day but I have to do
> it....
> > >>
> > >> 1997 Dodge Dakota SLT (V6/5spd)
> > >>
> > >> This has been a project truck since it was
> new (I
> > am
> > >> the original owner with clean title).
> > Unfortunately,
> > >> I don't have the time to finish up the V8
> > conversion
> > >> and had to scrap the engine project. Truck is
> > >> missing the original engine as it was beyond
> > >> rebuilding.
> > >>
> > >> Extra's included:
> > >> Reflexxion Cowl Hood
> > >> APEXi SAFC-II Fuel Controller
> > >> Custom Flashed PCM (Engine Controller)
> > >> Hotchkis Front/Rear Springs and Coils
> > >> Quickor SwayBars (1-1/4" Front and
> 1-1/8" Rear)
> > >> KYB "MonoMAX" Shocks (Front and
> Rear)
> > >> Modified Factory Front End-Links (Poly
> Bushings)
> > >> Energy Suspension "Flipped" Rear
> End-Links (Poly
> > >> Bushings)
> > >> Dana Heavy-Duty Limited-Slip Differential:
> 3.55:1
> > >> Hotchkis Front/Rear Springs (Coil/Leaf)
> > >> Toyo Proxes ST 255/40-18 Tires
> > >> Enkei "RT6" 18"x8.5" Rims
> > >> Cerullo XR Custom Upholstered Seats
> > >> Simpson 4-Point Harness (w/Steel mounting
> plate
> > >> under body)
> > >> Floor/Cab Reinforcement Bar
> > >> 2006 Dodge Viper Steering Wheel (No Airbag)
> > >> 2006 Dodge Viper Shift Knob (Mopar Accessory)
> > >> Infinity Reference Series Component Speakers
> > (Front)
> > >>
> > >> JBL Audio Rear 6.5" Speakers
> > >> MTX Thunderform Dual 10" Subwoofers (in
> > enclosure)
> > >> Clarion 400W Amp - Drives the Front/Rear
> Speakers
> > >> HiFonics 250W Amp - Drives Sub-Box
> > >> Mopar Billet Fuel Door
> > >> LED Tail lamps
> > >> Halogen Backup Lamps
> > >> Tinted Windows - Side, Rear, and Slider
> > >>
> > >> All this truck needs is a new engine (Either
> V6
> > or
> > >> V8 conversion). If you want to put in a V6, I
> > still
> > >> have the custom built heads, camshaft,
> carillo
> > rods,
> > >> and custom ground crank.
> > >>
> > >> I have invested over $8000 in modifications
> in
> > this
> > >> truck but have to let it go. I am asking
> $3500
> > for
> > >> the entire vehicle - I will not part it out.
> > >> You can see the entire buildup here:
> > >> http://www.dodgetrucks.org/fasstdak
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 22:45:52 -0500
> From: "Brian" <hskr@cox.net>
> Subject: RE: DML: coolant troubles
>
> WOW. Yes, it could take that long for the coolant to leak
> enough out to the
> point of being too low like you are now. As for the
> overflow reservoir, if
> there isn't enough coolant in your system to keep you
> from overheating, then
> the system isn't going to recirculate properly and the
> fluid in the
> reservoir won't be sucked into the engine. Especially
> since it all leaked
> out when the cap was loose, thus not building up any
> pressure.
>
> Don't add just anti-freeze/coolant either. Personally,
> I'd just top it off
> with water for now, then when doing the "bleed"
> procedure from the FSM, use
> coolant. If you are going to wait until the local shop
> opens up to buy
> stuff, then get the 50/50 pre-mixed stuff, and you will
> probably need at
> least two gallons.
>
> When you opened the hood and saw fluid all over the engine,
> that should have
> been the first sign that you might need to top off the
> coolant system. Then
> when you noticed there was no water in the radiator hose
> when you replaced
> the radiator cap, that should have been the next sign that
> you might be low
> on coolant. Then the first time you overheated, and you
> said the upper hose
> felt cool, then once again, here's your sign. If
> there's not enough water
> in the block to let the water touch the thermostat, then
> the thermostat
> isn't going to open.
>
> brian cropp
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf
> Of
> jherrman@zoominternet.net
> Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 8:55 PM
> To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
> Subject: Re: DML: coolant troubles
>
>
> On Sat, 31 May 2008 21:22:26 -0400, Terrible Tom
> <silvereightynine@aol.com> wrote:
>
> > well first thing first - did you add any coolant to it
> at all since this
> > all started? I get the feeling you have not. Thats
> the first thing you
> > need to do before you drive it anymore. It sounds
> like you're driving
> > with it very low on coolant. You will cause lots of
> not-nice damage if
> > coolant is not added and you continue to drive.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> I haven't added any coolant, because the overflow tank
> still shows
> full. But I'm not driving it until I do. Once the local
> supply store
> opens on Monday (the only place within walking distance), I
> will top
> off the radiator and follow the FSM procedure for purging
> air. Then
> maybe I can drive to a shop, instead of having it towed.
>
> What I don't get is how the temp gauge would read fine
> for 75 miles,
> presumably with a loose radiator cap (unless somehow the
> cap came
> loose itself a day later) and then all of these overheating
> symptoms
> appear a day later. Is it conceivable that it took that
> long to boil
> out enough coolant to cause a problem?
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.24.4/1476 - Release
> Date: 5/31/2008
> 12:25 PM
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of DML Digest V5 #3404
> **************************
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Mon Jul 21 2008 - 10:10:56 EDT
