RE: RE: RE: O2 Sensors - reprise

From: Tom Coulter (metalshop@optonline.net)
Date: Fri May 22 2009 - 09:13:11 EDT


I'll keep your suggestion in mind in case push really does come to shove,
Bernd. But after staring at my software like a caveman for a while, it
dawned on me to click a button on the Sensor Data tab screens called Reset
Interface. This was inspired by your "This will do a hard reset on the
system." Voila! As soon as I did that, something happened, the MIL
disappeared and the DTC cleared - all at once. This is one of those things
that happens when you're using software w/ ZERO documentation. I'm sure you
know this song ...

Two closing comments:

1) I think I take back what I said initially (5/17/09):
Now let's turn to the Check Engine message I mentioned. I pulled the code
and it's P0132 (O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage). Sensor 1 & 2 on Bank 1
read "1000V 0% S.T. fuel trim". This strikes me as a possible short.

Not that it maybe made any difference but - to set the record straight - I
now believe that the message wasn't "1000V" but rather "1.000V". Since this
was for both sensors, I now theorize that the even 1.000V output may have
been diagnostic for "failed device" (as I had assumed for the erroneous
1000V).

It's also interesting to recall the claim by Jon (and perhaps others) that
the P0132 DTC applies to S1, whereas P0138 applies to P0138. I have also
read this elsewhere. I only got the P0132 code and can't swear that S2
failed. I can say that I got "1.000V" assigned to S2 on one of the Sensor
Data screens (as I did for S1). {btw, I captured these screens to a
PowerPoint file and wish I could attached for y'all to view.} I can also
say that I saw evidence that S2 had been replaced previously (saw the
remains of a plastic serrated fastener plug for the connection housing). In
any case, replaced both sensors and all seems to be fine now.

2) A bit academic at this point but I wonder if there's a practical way to
"test" these sensors in place. Maybe apply an excitation voltage to on of
the leads and read output? But wouldn't you have to also heat it? I've
read that "This sensor only operates after it reaches a temperature of
approximately 349C (660F). Propane torch in one hand, Fluke meter in the
other? Bernd may have spoken to this before - if so , I missed it.



This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Mon Jun 01 2009 - 00:37:01 EDT