Hmm, do you live in a salt-prone area? No salt here so corrosion tends
to be less of an issue.
I figured I could order the Chrysler spec "special tool" mentioned in
the FSM but knowing Miller SPX it's probably 80 bucks! If I must pull
the steering box I will, though...
MattB
Terrible Tom wrote:
>
> Matt Beazer wrote:
>
>>
>> I just dropped a few hundred bucks on all new Moog tie rods/adjusting
>> sleeves/idler arm/pitman arm, etc to get the truck in shape for new
>> tires (it has a weird "ping" noise when turning the steering wheel
>> and the wheels/tires have a good 1/4" of left/right slop).
>> I thought I'd ask if anyone had any hints on removing the pitman arm
>> on a '95 4x4? From the looks of it, there's dang little room to get
>> a tool on there. I bought a cheap puller from Harbor Freight but I'm
>> starting to wonder if it'll fit unless I pull the steering gear.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> MattB
>>
>
> Take it for what its worth - but I'm going to recommend you actually
> remove the steering gear box itself. Three bolts through teh left
> side of the frame. One bolt in the steering shaft and the slip shaft
> pulls out (use lots of PB Blaster oil)... and the two power steering
> fluid lines. (good time to flush the power steering system while your
> at it - who knows if that fluid was ever changed in 14 years...)
>
> The pitman arm on Christine refused to come off when I wanted to
> change it. I busted pitman arm pullers, tie rod pullers etc... heated
> it - froze it... What I ended up doing was isntalling a new pitman
> arm on a rebuilt steering gear box. The box went bad on me anyway -
> so I didn't bother trying to pull the arm off the old box again -
> there was no point to it. But if you want to remove it with less
> hassle... trust me - dropping the gear box is easier than screwing
> around with it on the truck and fighting with the front crossmember in
> the way. Off the truck you can get it on a bench top or better yet in
> a vise.
>
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