I don't know if it was due to 5 months of not driving the truck (when
driving the Ford ZX2), but it seemed like the brakes did grab quickly. I
did just replace them in November before I stopped driving.
As I was looking, I probably also should replace the hard line as well.
The ones in front are realy rusty, due to them being exposed.
I plan on keeping the truck as long as possible (hopefully another 10
years). I have on schedule to replace the timing chain, alternator, AC
compressor, AC lines, Trans and Oil pan gaskets, and trans filter.
I'll spend the $30 for each caliper and $10 for rear drum pistons, then
I'll replace whatever lines I can later (I should be able to clamp the
soft lines to prevent all the fluid from leaking).
The list of stuff to do at the DML BBQ is getting longer.
-- Chris Reck Bloomington, IL>> '99 Dakota Sport + CC 4x4 V6 (Deep Amethyst) >> "It's not the meat, it's how you apply the rub"
rsb7424@gmail.com (Scott Lane) wrote in news:AANLkTik-ofJVlJw7Yr7CDBlUCvoxFfrvBhNIXJR6OG3d@mail.gmail.com:
> > Several of us have had this problem...its your brake booster. The > adjustable, (sort of) rod that acuates the master is backing out and > not allowing the master to back off enough so the caliper piston > cannot back off the rotor. I HOPE its just a caliper, but doubt > it...do you seem to have very little free play in your brake pedal? > > Rascal > > On Fri, May 21, 2010 at 4:47 PM, Azie L. Magnusson > <maggie11@mchsi.com> wrote: >> >> Chris Reck writes: >> I'm now fairly certain that it is the >> caliper. The brake rotor did look like it was hurt pretty bad >> (imaging flamethrower on metal). Question is, should I replace the >> soft line to that side and/or the wheel bearing due to the heat? << >> >> I'd say neither. The culprit is most likely the piston in the >> caliper is stuck. If it happens to be factory and the phoenelic >> material that they used back in the late 70's and early 80's, >> then I'd bet my lunch on that being the case. You can either >> replace the piston with a metal one and install new seal, or >> replace the whole caliper.. It might not hurt to replace the >> flex line, but I'd test the flow prior to replacing it. To test the >> flow remove the line from the caliper and have someone >> mash the brake pedal.. If you get a "GUSH" of brake fluid >> then the line is open..(you will have to bleed the brakes after >> either of the above).. >> >> Good luck!! Keep us posted.. >> >> >> Enjoy Life - It has an Expiration date!! >> >> Azie >> > >
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Tue Jun 01 2010 - 09:37:17 EDT