Always use new bolts... they are torque to yield stretch bolts... once used, trash them and get new ones, or get reusable ones, preferably ARP...
Later,
Tom Slick
Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S™4, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: John Dunlap <jsdunlap@roadkill.org>
Date: 06/07/2013 6:43 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: Re: DML: Broken intake bolt?
Before bolting it all down, get a thread chaser and clean out ALL threaded
holes and use anti-seize on ALL threaded fasteners. If you don't use new
bolts, get a die for each size threaded bolt and run it up and down each
bolt. Insurance.
On Fri, Jun 7, 2013 at 4:06 PM, David Gersic <info@zaccaria-pinball.com>wrote:
>
> Tracing a small coolent leak here on my '01 3.9l, and I think I found it.
> The
> rear-most passenger side intake bolt is broken off. This bolt must
> penetrate
> the water jacket, it seems like the coolent is seeping around the threads.
> This looks like it's going to be a pain to fix.
>
> Digging around, it looks like I need to remove the alternator and A/C
> compressor, then unplug everything on the intake manifold. After that,
> remove
> the remaining 9 bolts that hold it down, and pull it out.
>
> Then I get to find a way to remove the remains of this bolt. I assume that
> since it broke off, it's probably going to be a pain to remove. Maybe I'll
> get
> lucky and some vice grips and PB Blaster will take it out, but I'm betting
> against it. Drilling it out isn't going to be easy, because it's back under
> the cowl. Maybe a right angle drill will be able to get at it back there.
>
> I'll get a new manifold gasket, and I figure I'll replace all 10 bolts
> rather
> than re-using the old ones. Are there any other things I should be ready
> for
> when I go to do this?
>
>
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