There really isn't a 'good code' from the SBEC. The `55' code is `end of codes'
and if it's the only code you get, nothing's wrong. If you've worked on the
car, you'll get `12' for power interruption (anyone know how to clear this? or
does it expire after a few hours of operation?).
I've had the ABS warning light come on when the truck gets jarred _REALLY_ hard.
I think the wiring harness momentarily hiccupped, or the sensors said HHEEYYY!
[I can't help but wonder if an airbag would have deployed in my face on some
occasions offroad!] Mine reset after I turned the truck off and restarted. I
think the dealer would be on the right track to chase through the harness.
Kelsey-Hayes 4-channel ABS???
I was so upset about the noise from the engine compartment that I took the
truck back to the dealer several times, until I finally took the service mgr
out for a drive. Felt pretty foolish when it was clear it was just the fan.
I was sure it was the tranny (especially with the power loss - the towing
package fan must rob 15 hp off the drivetrain). The only real cure is to
switch to electric fans, which I'm in the design stage of...
The fan clutch has a tendency to lock up if the engine was warm when you
shut down - the latent heat in the radiator core evidently warms up the
bimetal strip and engages it, it needs to spin to release -- so that explains
the cold engine noise. The clutch is totally oblivious to the fact your
engine's cooling system is barely beginning to sweat (still in the normal
range on the gauge), it's sensing the air temperature about a half inch
behind the radiator. If you're in stop-n-go traffic, or off-road rock
crawling, it'll kick in at the most inopportune moment (a Murphy corollary,
I'm sure) - like when you need to beat that Honda to the on-ramp.
Finally, a lesson learned to share: Check the heater hose that's clamped to
the top left of the manifold of Magnum engines, right behind the Alternator.
Check for bulging or weakness. The hose is a Mopar molded part, though 5/8
heater hose works just fine, but it's pulled over the engine, and I think
may be prone to fail (as mine did) right behind the alternator. Unless you
have a magical hose clamp plier, you need to pull the alternator off to get
to the clamp. Take my advice, and remove the temperature sensor before you
try to remove the hose clamp. If the hose clamp slips, it'll hit the sensor,
which has a very fragile plastic wire connector housing. The sensor is not
stocked at very many shops (in San Diego, at least).
And... I just put Redline synthetic ATF in my A518. So far so good. I'll
report again at the end of my trip to Montana.
[No, I'm not visiting the Freemen, but my mother, and Glacier Park!]
Mobil 1, and Tribotech will be along for the ride too...
Cheery Ho!
Jim
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
"The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes,
but in having new eyes." -- Proust
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 12:07:24 EDT