Hi folks;
Busy weekend, shouldn't take all these emergency projects, but I gotts toys
to pay for he ... he!
I have seen a lot of posts in the last couple of days about when the first
waxing should come, removing swirls, etc. I had a sideline business with
my brother and another fella some years back detailing cars and have kept
up with it myself, the following steps can be used or just taken as my
$0.02 and apply to all colors.
The first thing I do with a NEW vehicle is to make sure it is stripped to
the bare paint, the same thing applies for a used vehicle except there are
more intermediate steps. (Remember a new vehicle's paint is *most* times
already a month old when you receive it and it has been baked. In my case,
relating to my ordered Dakota, it was built and sitting in the trim shop on
01/10/97 and received at the Dealer on 02/13/97).
Based on Meguiar's product Numbers.
#1: Stripping Wash with a strong detergent (such as Tide, I do not
recommend any soap that contains bleach or other additives). If the
vehicle is used or has been operated for sometime and has tar or other
impurities on the paint, while the vehicle is still wet, using a soft
cotton rag (cut-up white cotton socks work well) wipe/scrub the entire
vehicle down using kerosene to remove all the tar and other sticking
impurities. Hose off the vehicle and wash again using a grease removing
dish detergent (such as Dawn). While still wet again (most of the water
will run off at this point, that's OK) wipe the surface down with a "wax
and grease" remover product. Wash the vehicle using dish detergent again.
Chamois (I use the "Absorber" fake chamois) and towel dry.
#2 Sealing At this point the vehicle should be completely stripped. [If
your vehicle is not clearcoated or is clearcoated with scratches, after the
kerosene wipe down, polish the finish (while still wet, just hose off
excess kerosene) with #2 Fine-Cut Cleaner.] Apply #7 ShowCar Glaze
(previously called paint sealer and re-glaze) by hand. I normally like to
leave this on the finish for 24hrs, but that is my preference, the product
never really dries. Hand buff using *woven cotton* cloth, terry cloth will
leave small scratches, be sure to buff it off completely "BY HAND". At
this point your finish should be as smooth as you have ever seen it, you
should be able to hold up a news paper and read the reflection on the
finish.
#3 Waxing Wait a little while (couple hours) for the glaze to harden
sufficiently and apply #26 Yellow Wax, do not put this on very thick, use
sparingly. Buff off the wax, again using woven cotton cloth, repeat if you
would like (I usually do the hood, tops of fenders and roof twice or more),
but let the buffed wax take its set before applying the next coats.
#4 Misc. I use rain-x on all exterior glass surfaces (be absolutely sure
that the glass is clean prior to using this product for the first time). I
use a product called *Black-Chrome* by *Turtle Wax* for things such as door
handles (black plastic or black painted, bumper covers or inserts, cleaning
wiper blades and for the black arms, plastic side mirror housings, door
weather stripping, etc.)
Transparent plastic such as *Ventvisors* and such can be cleaned and
polished using #17 Cleaner and #10 Polish, works on your dash gauge/speedo
window. These are great products, you will find many uses for them around
the house.
Everything I have described works for me, use at your own risk, (for
reasons of liability and all).
There are a few other little things that I have found, but I think this
post is already to long. If anyone has any questions, you may e-mail me
direct to keep the chatter down on the list.
Enjoy.
===================='97 Dakota SLT+=====================
L. John Morris<ljohn@alltel.net>
!!!!! ... your local *HEMI* owner ...!!!!!
White/Driftwood/CC/4x4/5.2L/5spd/3.92SG/air by 'Meldrum'
*Gibson* on the way
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