Michael Meyerhoff wrote:
> I put the first side together today. It turned out great. I used
> screws
> and liquid nails and it is as solid as can be dispite the angled
> slightly
> imperfect :.> joints. I'm taking pictures of every step and will
> post a
> web page of the construction.
>
> Where has everyone put thier amps? I'm thinkn under the drivers
> seat if
> room, or mabey behind the trim/cushion in the rear/side of the
> club cab??
> I know several people on the list have thier amps behind the
> trim... I've
> never owned car amp... do you need to get at it for adjustments, or
> once
> you set it up can you just leave it alone? It seems like a pain to
> get at
> the amp if you want to play around with it if its behind the trim.
>
> Ok if i put it behind the trim in the rear of the cab i guess i
> need to
> know how to get the trim off. Are there any tricks to removing the
> rear
> trim in the club cab.
>
> Thanks
> mm
>
> Michael Meyerhoff
> Sophomore Civil Engineering Student at
> the University of Missouri at Rolla
>
>
> mmeye@umr.edu
> Homepage http://www.umr.edu/~mmeye
> Mopar Territory
> http://www.umr.edu/~mmeye/mopar.territory/frntpage.htm
>
>
Michael,
I have to agree with everyone else: I wouldn't put the amp(s)
behind the rear trim wall.
Under the seat is your best option. You could put them behind the
trim wall but you would need two small 12v fans with the proper
ducting to pull the air from either outside or from inside the cab.
Make sure that you use a 10gauge or larger power and ground wire
for your amp(s).
I personally would go with an 8 gauge or larger. Remember that your
ground wire must be of the same size as your power wire and that it
must be touching "bare" metal. The power wire should have a fuse in
it no farther than 18 inches from the battery connection. This is
for safety reasons.
As far as your interconnect cables (RCA cables) (if you will be
using line level to feed your amps.) don't skimp on them. I have
learned from experience that the cheaper they are the worse your
system will sound. If you are using your speaker leads to provide
the signal to your amp(s), I suggest a line level converter.
Definitely a much cleaner signal.
Make sure that you caulk the heck out of the inside of your sub
box. It has to be as air tight as you can make it. The best way to
test this is when you finally get it all together with speakers
installed, gently push down on the cone. It should rise "very"
slowly. Good choice on the liquid nails. The wood will break before
that glue does.
You will definitely want access to your amps. Half the fun is
tweaking it for the best sound possible. If you decide to put it
behind the trim, maybe adding a small access panel will aid in the
tweaking factor.
I'm sorry, I could go on for a long time. I have always loved
car stereo since I was bitten by the bug 9 years ago. My plans for
my new Dak are 2 12" Infinity beta's (in a standard cab) and a set of
good DEI 6.5" separates mounted in the kick panels (or floor boards)
for proper staging (They tested very high in CA&E for the price) and
two amps. An MTX for the fronts (as they always test higher in power
than they are rated) and an Audio Control sub amp (with built in
epicenter) for the rear subs. I will mount a 30 band slider Phoenix
Gold EQ in the center console (40/20/40 bench seat). Head unit will
be my Eclipse CD player and maybe a small EQ below the head unit for
fidgeting with. I will run Veritas Accumatch's on all four channels
to drop the load to 2ohms. I believe that planning is also half the
fun.
Anyway, have fun with it and let us know how the install goes.
: -)
Shawn
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 12:07:47 EDT