Re: Subwoofer Update

From: Shawn Shultzaberger (shultzas@mwr.kic.or.jp)
Date: Thu Jul 10 1997 - 16:10:57 EDT


Stacy Clark wrote:

> > Michael,
> >
> > I have to agree with everyone else: I wouldn't put the
> amp(s)
> > behind the rear trim wall.
> > Under the seat is your best option. You could put them behind
> the
> > trim wall but you would need two small 12v fans with the proper
> > ducting to pull the air from either outside or from inside the
> cab.
> > Make sure that you use a 10gauge or larger power and ground
> wire
> > for your amp(s).
> > I personally would go with an 8 gauge or larger. Remember that
> your
> > ground wire must be of the same size as your power wire and that
> it
> > must be touching "bare" metal. The power wire should have a fuse
> in
> > it no farther than 18 inches from the battery connection. This
> is
> > for safety reasons.
> > As far as your interconnect cables (RCA cables) (if you will
> be
> > using line level to feed your amps.) don't skimp on them. I have
>
> > learned from experience that the cheaper they are the worse your
> > system will sound. If you are using your speaker leads to
> provide
> > the signal to your amp(s), I suggest a line level converter.
> > Definitely a much cleaner signal.
> > Make sure that you caulk the heck out of the inside of your
> sub
> > box. It has to be as air tight as you can make it. The best way
> to
> > test this is when you finally get it all together with speakers
> > installed, gently push down on the cone. It should rise "very"
> > slowly. Good choice on the liquid nails. The wood will break
> before
> > that glue does.
> > You will definitely want access to your amps. Half the fun
> is
> > tweaking it for the best sound possible. If you decide to put it
>
> > behind the trim, maybe adding a small access panel will aid in
> the
> > tweaking factor.
> > I'm sorry, I could go on for a long time. I have always
> loved
> > car stereo since I was bitten by the bug 9 years ago. My plans
> for
> > my new Dak are 2 12" Infinity beta's (in a standard cab) and a
> set of
> > good DEI 6.5" separates mounted in the kick panels (or floor
> boards)
> > for proper staging (They tested very high in CA&E for the price)
> and
> > two amps. An MTX for the fronts (as they always test higher in
> power
> > than they are rated) and an Audio Control sub amp (with built in
> > epicenter) for the rear subs. I will mount a 30 band slider
> Phoenix
> > Gold EQ in the center console (40/20/40 bench seat). Head unit
> will
> > be my Eclipse CD player and maybe a small EQ below the head unit
> for
> > fidgeting with. I will run Veritas Accumatch's on all four
> channels
> > to drop the load to 2ohms. I believe that planning is also half
> the
> > fun.
> > Anyway, have fun with it and let us know how the install
> goes.
> > : -)
> >
> > Shawn
> I didnt mean behind the rear wall trim. i meant put some wood on
> the
> rear wall trim and screw the amps on the out side trim through the
> trim
> into the wood. They would more ventalation then under the seats and
> my
> amps have built in fans. So why me worry????.

   Oh boy... hahahah sorry about that. I was thinking of an install
I saw in a club cab. Yep you are most definitely right.. hahaha.
There was an install in a Ram I saw in CA&E that did the very same
thing that you want to do. Looked very very good.....good luck with
it.... : -)

Shawn

 



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