On Thu, 10 Jul 1997 23:26:52 -0400, Sean Meldrum wrote:
>At 12:12 PM 7/11/97 +0900, you wrote:
>>
>>
>> Ok, here is what the newest Crutchfield says:
>> 97 Dakota club cab: 6.5S* front 6.5S* rear
>> 97 Dakota Standard 6.5S* front 5.25 rear (bottom mount)
>>Basically the 6.5S is just slightly larger and has alot of screw
>>holes to match existing
>>factory screw holes.
>>
>> There is 5 7/16" mounting space behind the front speakers and 4"
>>behind the rear speakers. And I have found that Crutchfield is
>>usually about a 1/2" off in their measurements. That can make a big
>>difference when you find that your window won't roll
>>all the way down because it is hitting on your new speaker.
>> The 96 and older Daks had 5.25" in the front and 5x7" in the
>>rear. I hope this helps in any way.
>>
>>Shawn
>>(97 Dakota V8)
In case anyone still cares..... I installed new 6.5 inch speakers in
the door panels in my 97 Dak yesterday. I have power windows and power
locks.
The door panels were fairly easy to remove. After removing the screws
( two of then needed a torx bit ( one of these is hidden behind the door
opener ) ) the door panel slides UP and out. The first thing you have to
do is reach behind the door opener and remove the bar/rod connected to it.
There is a plastic connector that you slide 'away' from the rod. The rod
then lifts up out of the connecting hole. You have to hold the door panel
while you remove this. Next you should remove the power panel by pushing
down on the top bracket ( from the inside ) and poping the power panel out.
You can then temporarily hang the door panel on the door again and work on
removing the two wire connectors from the power panel. (Now that I think
about it... I should have tried to push the power panel back though the
opening in the door panel and avoiding removing the two wire connectors
that were attached. ) The wiring connectors are difficult to remove. You
don't want to break off the two tabs on each connector if you can help it.
I pried one tab away, jammed a screw driver into the gap that was created
and then worked on the other side. This took me more time than any other
part of the operation. It was a pain. If the power panel will slide
through the hole, it will make it a lot easier. Once this is done, you can
remove the door panel and sit it out of the way.
I then remove the stock speakers, put the plastic brackets ( that were
attached to the stock speakers ) back in place and installed the new
speakers. It was a LOT harder to install new screws in the door panels
than it was in the rear cab sheet metal. I ended up having to dril starter
holes. This was AFTER I just tried to install a screw and ran it RIGHT
THROUGH the speaker and bracket. ;( Use a starter hole for the door
panels.
I then reinstalled the door panels and wires. Everything went back
together easily. The 'TOP' screw holes on each door panel did not hold
the top screw very tightly. It was EASY to strip the plastic holders for
those two screws.
The ONLY thing that I don't like about the new speakers is that they
don't have a 'screen' like the stock speakers. The Door panel is about
4 inches away from the speaker so it looks like a really big area back
there.
Jack - jack@cybermail.net
home (817) 488-4386 / work (972) 516-6270 / fax (817) 481-7182
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