88 Sport Info

From: Walter Felix (Walter_Felix@msn.com)
Date: Mon Aug 11 1997 - 19:23:32 EDT


Does anyone know the production info on an 88 Sport? I have an 88 Sport 4x4
(You know, the one with the square nose) and every time I've seen another
early style Sport it has been an 89. I was told by someone, at a dealer once,
that in 88 the Sport package was a limited edition and in 89 it went into
regular production. I have not been able to verify this. Does anyone know
the facts? Also, my 88 has all the options (Power windows, Door locks, AC,
Cruise, Tilt, etc...) which seems to be unusual because I've never seen that
in another early style Sport.

OK now the Tech Question,
        I would like to lift this truck higher. Recently I saw a 96 Club Cab with
both the 3" Body and 4" Suspension kits by TrailMaster.
The Truck sat on 35" BFGs and looked awesome. (I have plenty of pictures to
upload later) The owner said he didn't have any problems with tire clearance
and was considering a 38" tire replacement. Now I have the 3" Body Lift on
31x10.50x15 Dunlop Radial Mud Rovers and with the 15x10 AR Type 26 Rims (with
some offset) I rub very slightly when pulling into driveways. I am
considering two different paths to lift the truck more. Both are going to be
major projects.

Option 1
        The TrailMaster 4" suspension kit. Now here's where it gets tricky. The kit
is listed for 91-96 applications. My truck, an 88 is not listed. I've done
a little research and found this. The kit utilizes the stock lower control
arms, ball joints, steering knuckles and torsion bars. It uses a tubular
style replacement upper control arm, a heat treated knuckle adapter (between
the top of the knuckle and the upper ball joint) and drop down brackets for
the lower control arms, differential and torsion bar anchors. Now here's a
list of the suspension parts in a 4x4 Dakota V6. (The book I have is a 95
edition so it doesn't list 96 parts)

                Part Year Part #

                Steering Knuckle 87-92R 4322 504
                                                87-92L 4322 505

                Seal 87-95 5212 535

                Upper Control Arm 87-95R 52038 302
                                                87-95L 52038 303

                Bushing 87-95 4106 195

                Shaft 87-95 NOT SERVICED

                Lower Control Arm 87-90R 4447 532
                                                87-90L 4447 533
                                                91-92R 52039 028
                                                91-92L 52039 029

                Ball Joint
                        Upper 87-95B 2808 394
                        Lower 87-95B 4322 564

                Torsion Bar
                        2000 lb. 6 cly 87-95R 4322 516
                                                87-95L 4322 517

                Anchor 87-95 4322 557

                Bearing 87-95 4014 100

                Bolt 87-95 3815 680

                Shock Absorber 87-95B 4397 905

                Bumper Stop 87-95B 4322 534

                Stabilizer Bar 87-90 4447 147
91-95 4447 652

Bushing
        Outer 87-92 4322 450
        Inner 87-95 4447 006

Clamp
        Outer 87-90 4322 454
91-95 4447 508
Inner 87-95 4447 146

                Bracket 87-95R 4447 072
                                                87-95L 4447 149

The point is, with exception to the lower control arm, Stabilizer Bar and a
Clamp, my 88 has the same front end as a 92 (which the kit will fit). Since
all of the parts the kit replaces are the same, theoretically the kit should
bolt in. Does anyone know the differences in the lower control arms. I
thought it may be the mounting points to the frame but a tape measure verified
the distances between points, the drop brackets should fit without a problem.
 Any Ideas? I've seen it listed between $1200 & $1800 and it would be an
expensive experiment.

Option 2 (This is a sick idea)
        Remove the IFS and convert to a straight axle. I've seen this done twice.
One had a Jeep Wrangler front axle with coil springs, the other (a mud bogger)
a Dana 44 with leaf springs. Both seemed very doable after checking them out.
 If I were to go this route I would do the Dana with leaf springs. I would
need to have the axle custom made (Cha-Ching) but would gain other benefits.
Better choice of gears, lockers, manual hubs, and a larger bolt pattern. I
already have a Dana 44 for the rear, (sitting in the barn) it's 2 inches wider
that the stock axle, has an ARB Air Locker with 3:90 gears and a 5 lug 5-1/2
bolt pattern. I just need to put the spring pads and shock mounts on it and
it's ready to install. I have also seen a kit to convert it to disk brakes
and may go that route as well. Have any of you tried this. Gong with leaf
springs would make it easier to lift with a trip to the local spring shop to
have high arch springs made. I could go as high as I would like (Lift Laws
Suck) However, this approach will be quite a bit more expensive to do.

Walter_Feix@MSN.COM

 



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