Hey guys, some of you may remember Sean Meldrum from a while back, you
know the inventor of the FABM.... Well, I've been staying in touch with
him via Email and he wanted me to post a few things for him. See he was
browsing through some of the archives and felt he could contribute to a
couple of things. (You have to be subscribed to the list to post
anything to it, which he is not) so here goes.
Begin
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Saw this while pokin' thru the archive.....thought I could contribute.
> 1/4" x 4 1/2" coarse thread bolt which was nearly identical to the stock
> hold down bolt. (At the risk of sounding completely stupid, it had that
> "square thingie" near the bolt head.)
>A carriage bolt? Hmmm, not a bad idea. I don't have easy access
>to a vise, and will make an S-bolt once I can scrounge one up, but
>this sounds like a good, quick stopgap. Thanks.
>Sure. :-) I do have access to a vise, and that's how I was planning
>to do it, but it sounds like this could be a pain! How are you planning
>on making it? Just bend it? Are you going to use any heat? I'm
>definitely not looking forward to making that S-bolt. :-P
Check out part of my page at
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/sbolt.html and there is a
engineering print of my '97 S-bolt application. The offset will be
correct
for all years. You just need to verify the total height of the bolt
required based upon where the top the air can is relative to the
throttle
body. Remember to allow for approximately 3/8" to 1/2" extra for
threading
into the throttle body and for protruding out of the top of the can.
I'll
be setting up plans for a 14" '97 application and '96 and previous
applications as soon as I get access to a '96 or previous truck. I'll
be
adding a 14" to the RPM Dakota in the spring. If anyone has p/n's for
a
'96 and older and feels it was a good fit/easy install/cost effective
choice please feel free to email me at spm@c3net.net . These are the
requirement I used for my original FABM.
A vise shouldn't be necessary. I used two pair of vise grips or a pair
of
vise grips and a pair of good pliers. Just takes a little muscle and
control to get the bends right. 8^) Good luck.
I'm currently workin' on plans for an "airfoil" that will allow smoother
airflow into the throttle bores. I'll let everyone know when testing is
complete. I've got a DML member lined up for initial R&D drag strip
testing (you know who you are). 8^)
L8R
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>Hello all, what seems to be the gaps you all are running that have an
>aftermarket ignition? Has any found going real big hurts perfomance and
>to small does'nt let the ignition do its thing. Just thought I'd ask.
> Dan
>
>Dan,
>I run mine at about .045 with the MSD 6AL / Blaster 2.
If yer runnin' an MSD, Crane, whatever....have a hot
coil.....and the
wires to get the juice to the plugs you should be able to safely use a
.0475 gap. I gapped the Champion Truck plugs I installed at .0475 b4 my
17OC97 trip to Milan that netted me the 14.98 run. Next spring I may
try
to go too .050 for kicks. Remember......you'll need the hot ignition
and
wires to fire this gap consistantly. I'd recommend having the brass
cap &
rotor as well. I'm using Accell p/n's 120329 cap and 130328 rotor.
L8R
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Sean also asked me to tell everyone "what's up" and hopes things are
going well for everyone.
--
Michael Clark mike@snakebite.com
'93 MarkIII 4X2 V-8 SWB RC auto
MP SBEC, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster cat-back dual
Doug Thorley Headers, Moroso Blue Max wires
http://userv.wt.net/~mclark/dakota.html
http://userv.wt.net/~mclark/webring/ring.html
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