On my 98:
Get a "window crank remover tool" ($4) and slide it between the door
panel and the crank. It will push out a little spring clip that you
should save. Remember to roll up the window before starting. (To
replace it, put the clip on the crank and slide the crank back on,
it will click into place.)
You'll also need a T25 Torx bit and a Phillips bit. Remove all the
screws (don't miss the one under the door handle!) and lift the panel
upward. Then reach inside and unclip the door handle and any harnesses
(power mirrors, locks, etc.). My tweeters are mounted on the panels,
if yours are like that, you'll have to unclip the tweeter housing too.
As for the deadening, I have dynamat (adhesive rubbery PVC stuff,
apply it with a heat gun) on the metal that faces the interior, and
spray
stuff on the inside of the exterior sheet metal. The panel itself has
that hairy gray mat on the back, so I didn't do anything there.
The materials were costly (about $80/door), but the results are worth
it:
big drop in wind noise, no "humming" when the stereo is playing, and it
feels like you're closing a bank vault when you shut the door <grin>.
cheers,
mike
John Michael Foster [SMTP:foster.john@mailexcite.com] wrote:
> In response to the subject of the speakers, what's involved in
removing the door
> panels? I'm planning to sound insulate all interior panels on my club
cab.
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