>
> Robert, don't let em scare you away with talk about bleeding the brakes.
> No need to mess with bleeding the brakes if you're just going to change
> the pads. The only time you need to open the hydraulics is to
> repair/replace wheel cylinders, master cylinder, brake lines, etc.
> During pad replacement, you just retract the wheel cylinders. Now if you
> have brake fluid leaking from the wheel cylinders...
Correct me if I'm wrong but to retract the wheel cylinders you have to
loosen the nipple and bleed enough brake fluid out to let it retract far
enough to put new pads on, then after you have it reassembled you loosen
it again and have someone press the brake pedal a few times to insure
there's no air in the lines, because if you don't and there is air in the
lines I'd hate to be the car stopped in front of you at thenext redlight
you come to........
>
> I would recommend getting a repair manual like Haynes, etc. These
> manuals usually have a pretty good description of the brake pad
> replacement procedure.
>
> Front disk brake pads are cake. Haven't messed with my Dak yet, but
> typically you just remove one of the caliper slide bolts and pivot it
> back. Once the caliper is out of the way, the pads just unclip, you
> press the piston back in with a C clamp, and clip in the new pads. While
> the caliper is out of the way, the rotor can be removed and replaced.
> Typically, front pad replacement only takes about a half hour not
> counting messing with the rotors, and most of this time is spent jacking
> up the vehicle, setting up stands, and removing and replacing the
> wheels.
>
> On the drum brakes, remove the wheel and pull off the drum (you may need
> to back off the self-adjuster first before the drum will pull off).
> Getting the pads off the rear is a bit more of a pain because of the
> clips and springs, but they're not that bad - just pay attention to the
> way the hardware comes off, and reverse the procedure to put em back on.
> A big screwdriver and pliers (or better yet, a brake spring tool) are
> useful for removing and replacing the springs.
>
> The only real inconvenience is taking your rotors and drums to a shop to
> get them turned (any brake shop, Pep Boys, etc.) if the Dak is your
> primary mode of transportation - you will need a 2nd set of wheels to
> get them there and back.
>
> As Norm would say, "practice shop safety", and use jack stands. Not that
> I ever do, of course... ;}
>
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