Bruce Aaron Hefner wrote:
>
> Correct me if I'm wrong but to retract the wheel cylinders you have to
> loosen the nipple and bleed enough brake fluid out to let it retract far
> enough to put new pads on, then after you have it reassembled you loosen
> it again and have someone press the brake pedal a few times to insure
> there's no air in the lines, because if you don't and there is air in the
> lines I'd hate to be the car stopped in front of you at thenext redlight
> you come to........
>
> >
I've always just compressed the pistons until they bottom out, and the
fluid is just forced back through the system into the master cylinder
reservoir - when the resivor gets too full (assuming you've been topping
it off as the brakes wear), you just spoon a bit out. All brake systems
have to allow return flow so that the extra fluid which forced the pads
to extend can get back into the reservoir as they retract after letting
your foot off the pedal.
On the calipers, this can be accomplished with a special tool or a C
clamp. On drum brakes, you just squeeze the old shoes together before
you pull them off (or the squeeze new ones together after you put them
on). This is the typical procedure recommended in the shop manuals I've
seen.
I'm sure the brake bleed method works fine. Just alot more trouble. Is
this called out in the Dak service manual :( - I don't have one yet.
jeff - Atlanta, GA
98 RC 4x2 V8 5spd 3.55SG flares
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