technical replies, numerous topics, lengthy article by author

From: Patrick & Kelly Engram (shetland@pop.erols.com)
Date: Fri Feb 27 1998 - 00:29:45 EST


> Sorry guys, but us digest guys save it up for all at once! Delete this
> if you dont want to read good, deep technical advice. My ASE buddies
> can back me up on my points.
>
> 1) Regarding dirty wheels- Most wheels pick up their dirt when they
> are on the front. They pick up brake dust and also grease from the
> balljoints and tie rods, plus road grime too. You can scrub all this
> off with no problems. Even use polishing compound to get it real clean.
> You can spray clearcoat paint onto the inside of the rims to make it
> easier to clean in the future. Most Dodge aluminum wheels are clear
> coated on the front side anyway, so give the back a shot too!
> 2) Shocks- many shocks will "seep", losing small amounts of oil from
> the upper seal. Funny thing-most shocks today are gas charged! So this
> is not a sign that they are bad. Old styles before gas charged use a
> hydraulic oil to dampen, and if this leaked out, it could mean that they
> are bad. Today, oil is usually put it to cool down the innards, the
> gas does the dampening. 2 types available- light duty low pressure gas
> with a 1 3/16" bore, and heavy duty high pressure 1 3/8" bore. Light
> duty is @175 psi, H/D @300 psi. Higher pressure and larger bore=shock
> can dampen heavier load. H/D handle better, last longer, but ride
> rougher. Either come with lifetime warranty from Gabriel and Monroe.
> Firestone sells relabled Gabriels for 19.99 and 26.99 with lifetime
> warranty, cant beat it! Replace shocks because they're broken, leaking
> fluid real bad, or you are convinced that the truck doesn't ride or
> handle like it used too.
> 3) What issue of Auto Week had the R/T? Anyone have a copy and a
> scanner that can e-mail me the article, or Motor Trend too?
> 4)Brakes-Robert Trottman. Brakes will function and work without
> machining
> the rotors. However, there are many reasons to do this. Dakotas are
> known for rotors warping (causing pedal pulsation), turn them now to
> avoid
> turning them later to eliminate that potential. New pads will stop
> quicker
> and last longer if they are given a new surface to break-in with that
> is machined to the proper microns. A non-directional finish also keeps
> them
> from making noises. Pads will last longer and most of the time will not
> squeak if you turn the rotors. Leave them alone and you'll probably
> have
> one of these problems that I described above. On your newer dakota, the
> caliper comes off with 2 bolts through the caliper. The rotor slides
> off
> the hub, do not take the center spindle nut off. If your rotor is
> stuck,
> soak it with rust penetrant. Buy a brake pad brand that you recognize
> with
> a lifetime warranty (bendix, raybestos) They'll save $ on your next job
> plus they dont squeak as much and stop better. You get what you pay
> for.
> Dakota's all have metallic pads, that is not what leads to Dakota brake
> problems. Blame that on putting too small brake systems on too heavy of
> a vehicle. This leads to overheating of parts and warping. Blame Dodge
> and corporate profit hawks that save $4 per vehicle by downsizing rotor
> diameter 1-2"
> 5)Brake fluid-Brake fluid is hygroscopic-which means it absorbs water.
> In
> 2 years time it can absorb enough to boil under extreme conditions. The
> moisture can also lead to the corrosion of parts, including ABS modules
> on
> those so equipped (read big bucks) Change your brake fluid for these
> reasons alone every 2 years, forget the mileage! In addition to this, I
> see some guys say stuff about bleeding, pushing in pistons, etc. Note
> to the wise- good way to blow out the check valves on ABS vehicles is to
> just jam the piston in. Proper way-open bleeder valve on caliper, then
> slowly push piston in so any fluid forced back up goes out bleeder, not
> back up the line, carrying dirt and junk into the abs module or master
> cylinder. It is true that you dont need to bleed the system when you
> "hang pads" but I recommend cracking the bleeder and doing it like I
> said.
> If you take your time, you actually dont have to bleed them after this,
> you're forcing fluid out, not sucking any air in.
> Another note, you can bleed brakes yourself 2 ways. Gravity bleed
> means
> keeping the master cylinder topped off while you let one wheel cylinder
> or
> caliper drip fluid. This eventually will get all the air out of the
> system
> automatically, plus if you wait til you see clear fluid, then you've
> also
> changed the fluid too. Do this on all 4 wheels. You can also fill a
> clean
> glass jar with fresh brake fluid, put a piece of vacuum hose or tubing
> onto
> the end of the bleeder, and put the other end of the hose into the jar
> so
> the fluid covers then end. Then pump the brakes slowly yourself. When
> you
> push down, you force new fluid from the master cylinder down the lines
> and
> into the parts, and when you lift off the pedal, the fluid in the jar
> prevents air from being sucked back into the system. Pump the pedal
> slowly
> (with the bleeder open slightly) and let it come back up slowly, 1 man
> job. I do more brake jobs than Dodge rebuilds Dak trannies, and this
> works like a charm if I'm at home in my garage alone.
>
> My word of advice-turn the rotors and changed the fluid now! Avoid
> over-
> heating the new parts as they break-in, it'll make them squeak!
>
> End of my article, I'll write again in a few days! Any replies to me
> can be sent to my e-mail address- shetland@erols.com
>
> Patrick J. Engram
> ASE tech, blah, blah, blah



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