Not to confuse this issue even more, but some FYI. Since most brake rotors and
drums have very little metal to turn off, it can be to your wallets advantage to
ask the tech to make what is called a "scratch cut" to determine the depth of
the cut needed to clean up the rotor or drum. This assumes there are no deep
guages, etc, but the surface is visually "straight". Most brake surfaces today
only have .030" before they are at the "discard spec", so there's not much to go
before replacement. Years ago it was .060", .090" and more. A little more
"unsprung" weight, but I've got the original rotors (.090") on my 200,000+ Olds.
Turned once, stops great.
If the rotor is in good shape, a "final cut" might be all that is needed. This
is usually .002". Normally, a healthy .006" or greater cut is made,
indiscriminately. Then the rotor is inspected, and a final cut might be made.
The final cut should be made at a slower pace (feed rate) as well. These cuts
are on each side, so .004", or .012" is removed from the .030" that is
available, not counting existing wear (minimal).
Now, regarding opening the bleeder when pushing the piston back on an ABS
equipped vehicle - very good advice - I was unable to find any reference in the
Dak hassis manual on using the accumulator pressure or ABS pump to bleed the
brakes, as I've seen on a few other vehicles. Since I found none, I wouldn't
attempt to find out, but is this a generally accepted practice on CC vehicles or
all ABS equipped vehicles?
I was also unable to find instructions on how to discharge the ABS accumulator
in the chassis manual. This is important when working on the ABS system itself.
Other ABS systems have you push the brake pedal around 50 times (key off) to
discharge. Is the CC system the same?
Corrections and answers welcome!
-- David Brown Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 12:08:15 EDT