Here is a message I posted about a month ago. Hope it helps. This
flowmaster setup does not sound tinny at all! Joe Borg
______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: DML: 98 DAK mods complete! (with p/n's)-LONG
Author: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net> at internet
Date: 2/10/98 10:27 AM
Hi all, this weekend I completed several VERY successfull mods on my
Dakota. Several people have been questioning on procedures and I
thought I'd help clarify some of them:
Air Cleaner Mod:
Edelbrock 1208
K&N E-1080
This is a direct bolt on with little modification needed. There was
alot of talk concerning removing the stock mounting assembly and
custom bending an "sbolt" out of threaded rod. This scares me. Bending
threaded rod that far puts it at the point of breaking AND looks very
tacky. In a stock,close to stock application (cam, pistons etc) I dont
think there is too much to gain from eliminating the stock bracket and
using an s bolt. Someone mentioned using a Mr. Gasket 4" air cleaner
stud. How do you hold it in place? From a nut on the bottom, ready to
vibrate loose and fall in your engine? I dont think so Tim...
The stock setup uses a short carriage bolt inserted in the bracket
through the bottom and held in place with a locknut installed from the
top. I merely removed the stock bolt and replaced it with a 3 1/2"
1/4-20 carriage bolt and new locknut. You have to center the new
cleaner on the stock gasket, then the cleaner bolts down even better
than the factory install! No cutouts need to be punched out as the
1208 has a breather tube built right in. The breather hose runs from
the drivers side valve cover to the aircleaner. Twisting the hose 90
degrees so the opening faces vertical (up) rather than horizontal
(forward) and some slight rerouting is all that is needed. I trimmed
about 1/2" of the air cleaner end for a more perfect fit. If you are
facing the engine compartment I positioned the breather tube on the
air cleaner at about 11:00 to clear other obsatcles.
A perfect fit any mechanic would be proud of!
GAINS: much better throttle response.
At a 30 mph roll, floor it and hang on! A DEEP 4 bbl sounding
roar and TONS of torque! A definate improvement. A nice chirp
off the line but power braking still needed for any kind of
"smoke show"
With such good luck on the intake side, this is what I did to improve
the exhaust:
A flowmaster p/n 42443 is a direct bolt on to a 98 DAK. Flowmaster
advised NOT to increase pipe size from 2 1/2" to 3" UNLESS a complete
hi po rebuild was in line (including cam, pistons etc. ) They said
2-1/2" is optimum for a 318 with stock pistons, cam etc. Larger pipes
may help at all out top end but would ruin low end performance. I used
a 2 chamber muffler which is NOT too loud although you can hear it and
it sounds great! The installer needed to cut the front muffler bracket
and weld it directly to the pipe which is the way the raer hanger is
setup anyway. No adapter pipes were neded! There is a ton of clearance
AND I still have my stainless exhaust using all factory hangers!
Flowmaster 42443 - $54.95
Installation - $25.00
GAINS: No power braking needed at all! Hold rpms's at about 1500 with
brake. Release brake completely and floor it. A NICE smoke show into
2nd gear...with an automatic!
Now on to the the sure-grip upgrade.....will keep you posted.
Hope this clears up some of your questions. If you need anything
clarified, please feel free to write! Joe Borg
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 12:08:21 EDT