When I got my 98 Dakota I was sure that I could add the daytime
running lights module (DRLM) from the Canadian model. No dice. To
save a buck the US wiring harness has been stripped of all the bits
to make the DLRM work. Bummer.
Undaunted I went and purchased a Casco DRLM at Pep Boys for
$29.95. I spent a few nights figuring out the Dakota wiring from
the factory service manual. All of the wires I needed were on the
left fender. Here is the hookup:
Function Casco DRLM Dodge Color
Battery Hot Red
Ignition On Yellow Brown/Lt Green
Low Beams Orange Violet/White
High Beams Blue Red/Orange
Ground Black
I removed the Power Distribution Center (PDC) so I could move it
around to gain better access. It comes out with a 10mm bolt and by
releasing two clips. I mounted the DRLM on a plastic bracket that
was between the battery and the inner fender. The wires run under
the PDC. The high and low beam wires are in the big cable that is
against the fender. I opened up a little of the cable and I was
able to tap into them with the provided taps.
I extended the ground wire and connected to the factory ground
point under the PDC with a ring lug.
I removed the white connector and released the wire from the side
of the PDC. I ran the red and yellow wires up the space where
this cable went (there is room). The I got the hot lead from the
battery side of the 140 amp fuse using a ring lug. The DRLM fuse
now lives in the PDC. I connected the yellow wire to the BR/LG
wire on the back of the white connector using a tap.
Note: I tested the high/low and ignition on circuits with a volt
meter to make sure I had the right wire before making any
connections.
The wires coming out of the DRLM are covered with 1/2" split tube
wire wrap, like the factory harness.
So far it works great. The headlights are on at 80% during the day
and 100% when I turn on the headlights.
The factory system turns the lights off when the parking brake is
on. I was not able to do this because Chrysler did not run the wire
out of the junction block in the cab. I will rig this up if I can
get a factory connector insert to slip into the connector. In this
case it will still take a relay and a couple diodes to invert
the signal to turn off the lights with the parking brake.
Drive Safe,
Joe Dille
Telford PA USA
(joe@dille.montgomery.pa.us)
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