I frequently have people e-mailing me, asking about the installation of the 3"
body lift kit I have on the truck. I've added this section to my web page to
answer everyone's questions.
First, selections of a body lift kit. You have two different avenues here, you
can buy a cheap kit via a J.C.Whitney catalog or buy a brand name like a
Trailmaster kit. The differences I've seen are the type of blocks used. Most
of your lesser expensive kits use graphite blocks and your more expensive will
use aluminum. Graphite blocks are fine but the aluminum is much stronger. The
more expensive kits will also include shifter extension rods, boots and
templates to relocate the front bumper. The Trailmaster 3" Dakota kit comes
with 14 lift blocks with bolts, 2 shifter extension rods, a replacement
shifter boot and a template to relocate the front bumper and will run you
about $180.
Installation is very straight forward. The only trouble I had was with the
two cab mounts right behind the front wheels. These two mounts get crud
kicked upon them by the front wheels, it took me 45 minutes with an impact gun
and a can of penetrating oil to break the driver's side loose. The
passenger's side had to be cut off after about an hour of fighting with it. I
would suggest you inspect your cab mounts and frequently spray them with
penetrating oil for a few days before installing the kit. If you mounts are
very rusty or have any cracks, I would suggest getting a replacement set prior
to installation of the lift kit. The truck has 6 cab mounts and 8 bed mounts.
The bed was very easy to do and should be done first. Remember, the gas
filler hoses will have to be loosened when lifting the left side of the bed.
I was able to give them enough slack to lift the bed without having to replace
the hoses. Loosen all 8 mounts, remove the bolts from the passenger's side,
jack it up and place the lift blocks, install the new body bolts and finger
tighten. Repeat on the driver's side of the truck before tightening any of
the bolts. This will allow you to adjust the bed's location in relation to
the cab. Check the spacing left to right as well as the gap between the cab
and bed. When everything is lined up tighten the body bolts.
The cab has 6 mounts, two in front by the radiator support, two behind the
front wheels and two in the very back of the cab. Remember, if any of them
are going to give you a problem, it will most likely be the middle set. First
thing is to remove the automatic shifter linkage from inside the engine
compartment. Then, using a hacksaw blade, cut the lower half of the fan
shroud off. The radiator is attached to the body and when lifted, the shroud
will interfere with the fan blades. On V8 models, there is also a problem
with the lower radiator hose clearing the fan as well. I've seen one where the
owner replaced the fan with an electric unit and another where the owner
plumbed in a couple of 90° PVC elbows to clear the fan. Unbolt the plastic
air dam from the front fenders loosen the six body bolts, remove the bolts
from the driver's side. Very slowly jack up the driver's side of the cab.
Remember to watch the brake lines on the master cylinder. They should have
enough slack but be careful not to kink or crack them. Also watch the
transmission lines running into the radiator cooler so not to kink or crack
them either. I had to replace one of mine a couple of days after installing
the kit. A short length of rubber hose and a couple of hose clamps will
correct this problem if you run into it. After installing the blocks and
bolts on the driver's side, repeat the process on the passenger's side again
being careful not to kink any hoses or lines. Align the cab with the bed and
tighten the bolts.
Mark a line on the shifter linkage rod , running up and down. Cut the rod in
two, tack weld the 3" extension in-between the two halves of the rod and
reinstall the rod into the truck.
Unscrew the knob from the 4WD shifter and screw the extension onto the
shifter. Remove the base-plate and rubber boot, replace the boot with the
vinyl replacement included with the kit, and reinstall the base plate and
knob.
Unbolt the six bolts that hold the front bumper in place and remove the
bumper. Remove the bolts that hold the bumper brackets to the frame and
remove the brackets themselves. Using the template included with the kit,
drill new holes in the bracket 3" lower than the original holes. Reinstall
the brackets using the new holes. Remove the two corner braces still attached
to frame. Reinstall the bumper to the raised brackets, align and tighten.
Reinstall the corner braces to the bumper. The frame side of the brace will
now be 3" higher than the hole in the frame. The kit does not include a
bracket to raise the corner braces, however with a trip to a welding shop,
you can get two pieces of metal 11/2" wide, 4" long with holes 3" apart and 2
hardened bolts with nuts to install the frame side of the corner braces.
Reattach the plastic air dam to the fenders and the installation is complete.
Start and move the truck, then check for any fluid leaks. After about a week,
check and retighten all of the body bolts. Like I said earlier, double check
your cab mounts before taking the truck apart. It's better to have a
replacement set in hand than to have to take it apart twice. Also watch the
tranny and brake lines. Total time to install, a little over 4 hours, this
includes the time fighting with the cab mounts and a quick ride to a friend's
to weld the linkage.
Truck: 88 Dodge Dakota Sport 4x4.
Color: Flash Red
Motor: 3.9 V6
Tranny: A-500 Auto with NVP231 Transfer Case
Factory Accessories: AC, Cruise, Tilt, PW, PD, Rear Slider, Light Bar, Fog
Lamps & Covers
Aftermarket Accessories: Lund Interceptor, Lund Moon Visor, Sony
AM/FM/Cassette w/10 Disk Changer, ventguards, custom bed mat, black Dee-Zee
tailgate protector, Lund head-lamp blackouts, 4 Dick Cepek lamps with custom
covers, cowl style hood scoop, 3" TrailMaster body lift, 31x10.50x15 Dunlop
Radial Mud Rovers on 15x10 AR Type 26 rims, X-Tang railed tonneau cover (cut
and fitted to bed bar), Lund TailMate, Rancho RS-5000 Shocks, FlowMaster 3"
in/2 2-1/2" outlets, BushWacker fender flares, Taylor 8mm wires (Red), "FABM",
"DDBC".
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9219
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@buffnet4.buffnet.net On Behalf Of Jim Azeltine
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 1998 7:19 PM
To: 'dakota-truck@buffnet.net'
Subject: DML: Body Lift (attn: Walter_Felix)
Walter, I noticed in your Aftermarket Accessories: that you have the 3" =
TrailMaster body lift. Could you share your experience of installing?
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