Dahrl Clark wrote:
> A week or so ago I posted a message about dirt and debris
> plugging the fins of Dak rads. and would be interested if this is the case
> with yours. Let us all know. Hope this helps!
Boy this list is great, seems like for every part on our trucks there is
at least one member who is an expert on that part. Thanks for the info
Dahrl! I'll let everyone know if that was what caused it. I drove it
to school and back this morning and it did not leak. Just to be sure I
took it to a radiator shop and they did a pressure test with one of
those pump up things that attaches where the cap goes. Well about two
pumps and it was bleeding like a stuck pig (texas expression...) Guy
looked at it and said it was a cracked header and that the radiator was
basically "junk", (non repairable). They gave me two choices, I could
go with the OEM style with plastic tanks for $230 with a lifetime
warranty, or I could get an all metal copper and brass 3 core for $190.
How many cores is the stock radiator? They told me it was a two core so
the all metal would be a little better than the stocker. They also said
that the lifetime warranty on the plastic one was a joke because of the
fine print and that those type radiators are prone to crack just like
mine did. So I told them to get the all metal one and they will put it
in tommorow morning. Does this sound like a good choice? I looked in
the Summit catalog at some of the aluminum radiators but the prices were
in the $400 to $500 range. I think that would be overkill.
--
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Michael Clark mike@snakebite.com
'93 MarkIII 4X2 V-8 SWB RC auto, DDBC
K&N FIPK, Flowmaster cat-back dual, MP SBEC
Doug Thorley Headers, Moroso Blue Max wires
180 degree thermostat, WaterWetter, Brass cap & rotor
one and only 1/4 mile time of 15.08 @ 90.82
My Dakota page=> http://web.wt.net/~mclark/dakota.html
Dakota Webring=> http://web.wt.net/~mclark/webring/ring.html
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