I have lowered my truck 2" in the rear using aluminum blocks, but I am going to
change over the some steel ones soon. I also lowered the front 1.75" by cutting
about 1 coil out of each spring, The ride is very good and it looks a hell of a
lot better. The day after I had lowered it, everyone at work was asking me what I
had done to the truck.
Go for it, you will be glad you did.
Colin H.
DkotaKid@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 9/7/98 8:54:22 PM Central Daylight Time,
> bnich@bellatlantic.net writes:
>
> > I'd like to level out my truck it seems like the rear is 2" higher than
> > the front. Anybody done this yet. Can I do it with Blocks? I hear the alum.
> > ones are NG. I have a machine shop so I could make a pair out of plate.
> > Any one know if they are paralell or have an angle? Thanks again Bob
>
> Take it from somebody who's researched (and applied) the crap out of this
> subject: me! You can do the lowering any of about 4 respectable ways. The
> cheapest by far is with blocks. It's best to get some pre-made blocks, cuz
> they have the pin and hole in 'em for keeping the blocks centered. A decent
> set will be angled appropriately for the change in pinion angle. You have to
> keep the driveshaft at the same angle with the diff. that it cam from the
> factory, to insure against premature wear. I did shackles and blocks once, so
> I had to add extra angled shims to keep the driveshaft in line. Never had a
> prob for 39K miles. Just gotta make sure all the bolts are tightened to about
> 6 million ft-lbs tho, as mine worked their way loose a couple times. Oh yeah,
> you need longer u-bolts to accomodate the blocks. I thought the 2" drop was
> great - it "flattened out" the ride very nicely. Of course, ended up redoing
> the rear about 3 different ways, and the front end two different ways, but
> that's another story! BTW - get the poly bumpstops for the rear end, and
> ditch the factory monsters. You retain the majority of your travel that way.
>
> Andy
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