RE: R/T Headers

From: STRICKLAND, Tate (tstricklan@shl.com)
Date: Thu Nov 05 1998 - 11:08:05 EST


Good move - the tri-Y design and 2 ¼ to 3" Y will outperform other header
designs right off the bat. Maybe slightly harder to install than shorties
because they weigh more, and they aren't SS or coated (unless you ordered
them with no chrome and had them coated) but you WILL NOT be disappointed
with performance.

TIPS - from someone who has installed them twice:

1. Be damned sure that you remove every freaking grain of weld that has
overflowed into the backside of the primary to head flange bolt holes. If
you remove a little extra material, don't sweat it. I ended up drilling the
second hole from the rear on the passenger bank 1/16 oversize to get it to
fit - guarantee you it didn't make a bit of difference in the header's
position on the head. The fit is tight as hell!!!!
2. Check to make sure that you don't need to trim the uppermost
floorboard heatshield self tapping screw on the passenger side. Mine was up
against one of the bends in the passenger header and I had to pull the
carpet to get the screw out, shorten it, then get a friend with skinnier
arms than mine to cram his arm up in between the header and shield to
reinstall the screw's nut. Pain in the butt!!!
3. You can use sealer if you wish, but it was recommended to me to use
none - I didn't - zero leaks.
4. If you don't have a thin walled 3/8 socket, get one if you can or
grind the wall thinner on a cheap Taiwan socket - deep socket works best.
Five minutes of grinding might only save five minutes of turning 1/8 turn at
a time, but then you've got the socket to use for subsequent header
tightening sessions. I ret-tightened mine twice - no leaks.
5. If you can borrow (or are inclined to buy) a grinder before you get
started, do it. A few of the ARP bolt's flanges will need grinding for
sure.
6. If you can borrow (or are inclined to buy) a sawsall, do it. Makes
cutting off the old Y a beautiful thing!! Easy!!

The dyno won't lie - ask Mike Clark - he did a before and after with his
Thorleys (same header). 23 hp if I remember correctly. Sound wonderful
too.

Good luck and enjoy!

Tate

        -----Original Message-----
        From: Eric [SMTP:erich@dhc.net]
        Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 6:08 PM
        To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
        Subject: DML: R/T Headers

        To day I both MOPAR PERFORMANCE headers for my -99 R/T, list $615.00
but I wont tell what I paid for them he,he.
        I will dynotest before I install them. Let you know later.
         
        Swede
        -99 Black R/T CC Loaded
        -98 Concorde LXi  Loaded



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