You seem to be the Guru on this, so I ask, would a dropped spindle
correct bump steer?
-mike d.
>>> Gary Pinkley <gapinkley@earthlink.net> 11/08/98 01:08pm >>>
The Western chassis dropped A-Arm does not correct
bump steer.
Dakotas have bad bump steer when lowered beyond
2". This is caused by the angle of the steering tie rods
with respect to the rack. The factory designs steering
geometry to cause slight understeer. In this condition,
the tie rods point slighly downward from the rack at ride
height. This allows the wheels to point slightly outward
during cornering. Subjective testing by automakers has
shown that normal drivers feel more comfortable with
slight understeer versus oversteer. Slight understeer can
be corrected by simply lifting off the throttle on a rear wheel
drive vehicle. This is a natural reaction when your car is
pushing towards a guard rail. Lowering beyond 2" on a Dak
angles the tie rod upwards. This gives oversteer, i.e. the
truck's steering seems to be overly sensitive and twitchy
when cornering. Also if you encounter a bump during that
corner, the truck will seem to dart to the inside, seeming
to change lanes without warning.
As I stated above, the dropped A-Arm DOES NOT correct
bump steer. The only way to correct bump steer on a lowered
Dak is to change the angle of the steering tie rod. The dropped
a-arm only lowers the spring pocket, changing the pre-load on
the spring, allowing the vehicle to sit lower. Only by relocating
either the rack (can't be done without major surgery to the Dak)
or by lowering the outer tie rod ball joint can you return your Dak
to the factory geometry. Changing the outer tie rod location can
be accomplished in several ways, all of which require increasing
the rim diameter above the factory 15" size. You can cast a new
spindle which has it's steering arm lower than stock, you can try
to put spacers between the tie rod and the spindle, or install a new
tie rod end that has a longer stud. Looking at the factory spindle
with 15" rims, you will see that there is no room to play with the
vertical height of the ball joint.
Gary Pinkley
97 Reg Cab V-6 5 spd
lowered monochrome red
255/50-17 BFG Comp T/A ZR4
Budnik 17x8 wheels
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Nichols <bnich@bellatlantic.net>
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Date: Sunday, November 08, 1998 5:33 AM
Subject: Re: DML: Pictures of Lowered Dak's (Vince -Scott)
>Vincent Heckathorn wrote:
>>
>> Bob;
>> I have lowered mine 1.75" in front and 2" in the rear
>> I you go more than 2" in the front you won't have very much
suspension
>> travel.
>> I had to replace the suspension bumpers on the front so that it would
't
>> bottom out.
>> Also more than 2" you will get some bump steer.
>> I think that 2" in front and 3" in the rear is all that you will want.
>>
>> FWIW
>>
>> Colin H.
>>
>> Bob Nichols wrote:
>>
>> > Getin close to buying the Western Chassis Kit, still unsure if I want
to
>> > go 2/4 or 3/5. I've seen Todd's pictures of his 3/5 (very nice). Does
>> > any body have any pictures of a 2/4?? I realize if I go for the 2/4, I
>> > can get another inch in the rear with blocks, what can I do (short of
>> > changing the springs) to get that extra inch in the front? Thanx Bob
>
>Vince, My understanding on this is: If you use springs alone to drop the
>front, yes you'll get bump steer, however if you use the Westen
Chassis
>kit with the new A-Frames you won't have this problem. Bob
>
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