Gary, I didn't get a lot of bumpsteer from the drop. It's only bad at high
speed sharp turns on rough pavement and it's not that bad if you know what
to expect.
Todd
www.netunlimited.net/~mustang/
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Nichols <bnich@bellatlantic.net>
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Date: Sunday, November 08, 1998 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: DML: BUMP STEER was: Pictures of Lowered Dak's (Gary-Todd)
>Gary Pinkley wrote:
>>
>> The Western chassis dropped A-Arm does not correct
>> bump steer.
>>
>> Dakotas have bad bump steer when lowered beyond
>> 2". This is caused by the angle of the steering tie rods
>> with respect to the rack. The factory designs steering
>> geometry to cause slight understeer. In this condition,
>> the tie rods point slighly downward from the rack at ride
>> height. This allows the wheels to point slightly outward
>> during cornering. Subjective testing by automakers has
>> shown that normal drivers feel more comfortable with
>> slight understeer versus oversteer. Slight understeer can
>> be corrected by simply lifting off the throttle on a rear wheel
>> drive vehicle. This is a natural reaction when your car is
>> pushing towards a guard rail. Lowering beyond 2" on a Dak
>> angles the tie rod upwards. This gives oversteer, i.e. the
>> truck's steering seems to be overly sensitive and twitchy
>> when cornering. Also if you encounter a bump during that
>> corner, the truck will seem to dart to the inside, seeming
>> to change lanes without warning.
>>
>> As I stated above, the dropped A-Arm DOES NOT correct
>> bump steer. The only way to correct bump steer on a lowered
>> Dak is to change the angle of the steering tie rod. The dropped
>> a-arm only lowers the spring pocket, changing the pre-load on
>> the spring, allowing the vehicle to sit lower. Only by relocating
>> either the rack (can't be done without major surgery to the Dak)
>> or by lowering the outer tie rod ball joint can you return your Dak
>> to the factory geometry. Changing the outer tie rod location can
>> be accomplished in several ways, all of which require increasing
>> the rim diameter above the factory 15" size. You can cast a new
>> spindle which has it's steering arm lower than stock, you can try
>> to put spacers between the tie rod and the spindle, or install a new
>> tie rod end that has a longer stud. Looking at the factory spindle
>> with 15" rims, you will see that there is no room to play with the
>> vertical height of the ball joint.
>>
>> Gary Pinkley
>> 97 Reg Cab V-6 5 spd
>> lowered monochrome red
>> 255/50-17 BFG Comp T/A ZR4
>> Budnik 17x8 wheels
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bob Nichols <bnich@bellatlantic.net>
>> To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
>> Date: Sunday, November 08, 1998 5:33 AM
>> Subject: Re: DML: Pictures of Lowered Dak's (Vince -Scott)
>>
>> >Vincent Heckathorn wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Bob;
>> >> I have lowered mine 1.75" in front and 2" in the rear
>> >> I you go more than 2" in the front you won't have very much suspension
>> >> travel.
>> >> I had to replace the suspension bumpers on the front so that it would
't
>> >> bottom out.
>> >> Also more than 2" you will get some bump steer.
>> >> I think that 2" in front and 3" in the rear is all that you will
want.
>> >>
>> >> FWIW
>> >>
>> >> Colin H.
>> >>
>> >> Bob Nichols wrote:
>> >>
>> >> > Getin close to buying the Western Chassis Kit, still unsure if I
want
>> to
>> >> > go 2/4 or 3/5. I've seen Todd's pictures of his 3/5 (very nice).
Does
>> >> > any body have any pictures of a 2/4?? I realize if I go for the 2/4,
I
>> >> > can get another inch in the rear with blocks, what can I do (short
of
>> >> > changing the springs) to get that extra inch in the front? Thanx Bob
>> >
>> >Vince, My understanding on this is: If you use springs alone to drop the
>> >front, yes you'll get bump steer, however if you use the Westen Chassis
>> >kit with the new A-Frames you won't have this problem. Bob
>> >
>
>Hey Gary, Thanks for the info, I guess I was mis-informed. The more I
>talk about this, the more confused I get. I certainly don't want to make
>my Dak harder to handle. I also like the "rake" of my truck, looks a
>little race car like. But hate the huge empty wheel wells. Maybe if
>I go 2/2 it will be lower but still have the rake. Like I said in
>another post I think Todds 3/5 looks very nice. If the A arms don't
>correct the bump steer, why go thru all that trouble? Seems like 2"
>springs would be alot easier, no? Decisions, Decisions. Todd you there??
>Do you get that Bump Steer? Thanx Gary
>
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