> From: Robert Lange <DOYLEVONHEMI@webtv.net>
>
> I know this subject has been discussed at least 6,150 times since Ive
> been a member, but I just cant seem to find the answers I want in the
> archives. Anybody who has used 2" lowering blocks whats a good kind to
> use on a 9.25 inch rear? If anybody has done the work themselves what
> all is envolved and is it hard?
---------------------
Robert, I went with a custom solid steel 1 1/2"lowering block
which is 2 1/2 inches wide (leaf width) and 5 1/2 inches long.
Mainly because of the 5 speed torque (V8) and the 9.25 rearend.
I also double nutted the 3 1/2"ubolts w/lock nuts. If you have
a 5 speed I would suggest having them made at a machine shop.
This is expensive, mine were $75 including the steel. If your
DAK is an R/T, I've heard a 2" lowering is to much. A company
from Oregon called So Low Suspensions makes a good 2" block
out of heavy steel square tubing, but you will have to trim
the centerpin (no big deal)and they are not as wide as the leaf.
They are easy to install w/2 jackstands and a heavy duty jack.
An ac or air rachet helps. Be aware that the leafs are under
tension and might move around when you remove the factory ubolts.
This makes it hard to get the centering pins in w/out damaging
the centering hole on the axile. Aluminum blocks might work OK,
I know a lot of people use them. The 9.25 is a heavy duty rear
end so I went heavy duty on the blocks to match. ;)
GS -
98 5.2L 5spd
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