Rick Holzapfel wrote:
> Bob,
>
> The notch alone took about 1 hour to cut, we did it with a grinder with walter
> zip cut wheels (these are good because they are very thin and don't heat the
> frame too much - was gonna rent a plasma cutter but it was $75.00 canadian so
> instead i bought 2 zip cut wheels at $3.00 each) Bolted in the notch, there is
> no need to weld unless you have a v8 or plan on hauling a lot - it is held in by
> 12 1/2 inch bolts in each side.
> Everyone ...DO NOT torch your frame unless you own a chevy.
> The "c" gives about 2-3 inches of extra travel, so far i haven't bottomed out
> and i have tried...trust me
> . You only need the blocks if you go 4/6, the hangers and shackle mounts give
> you 5 or 4 or 3 inches of drop, or de-arch the spring. I'll get some pictures up
> asap.
> -Rick
> 98 Black RC 4/6 Drop
> Abbotsford, B.C.
>
> Bob Nichols wrote
> Rick, Must look nice! How long did the c-notch alone take? Welded or
> Bolted?Torch cut or wafer wheel the frame?How deep does the c-notch / how much
> additional travel does it give you?Are the blocks needed?? I guess they are 1".
> Sorry about all the questions.I'd like to go another inch or so. Love to see a
> picture.Regards,BobLowered 1998 Metalic Red Extended Cab
Rick, Sounds Cool. Look forward to seeing the pic's. Bob
Lowered 1998 Metalic Red Extended Cab
Western Chassis 2/4" Drop, Gibson Cat Back, Lund Roll Pan, Sport Masters Burgandy
Tonnue, Home Grown K+N, Stillen Bumper Cover, Sony CDX-7850, Infinity Kappa's, MTX
275x
Visit my Dak at http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/factory/7995
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