I've installed and use the Powerdyne and Vortech on my vehicles (not a Dodge
though). I've researched and talked to owners of Whipple/Kenne bell units.
Just like the rest of the world it's a "give and take" situation. Forgive me
if I start to ramble on but I'll just do a brain dump.
Kenne Bell/Whipple - These are twin screw blowers made in sweden or norway.
Kenne Bell has the rights to sell to the Ford (and apparently Chrysler)
crowd. Whipple industries has the bowtie/GM guys covered. It's similar to
roots blower only in terms of being a "positive displacement" charger,
whatever that means. The important thing is these units out put tons of low
rpm boost. Don't need no stinking downshifts! Good for street driven
vehicles and in my opinion great for trucks (if you have the traction). I
think it matches magnum engines given the low redline and stock power curve.
There are several down sides. You tuning and fuel system better be ready to
handle it. It has to be ready to supply fuel and timing changes at an
instant because full boost is there instantly. It's harder to tune for than
a centrifugal blower. Twin screws are heavy 50+lbs (vortechs are about
15lb). twin screws boost reach max at around 2500rpm and stays contant from
there on. However they tend to drop off the upper rpms due to lower
efficiecy levels. Kenne bell do have 2 sizes of compressors but I don't know
which you will get. twin screws run hotter, period. so your air charge will
reflect that. Don't know how magnums will cope if they're already pinging NA
with 89 octance gas.
Vortech - industry leader and bullet proof. The only time I've heard that
they die is when the oil supply line gets clogged with debris or
contaminated or when they use a cogged belt on a unit not beefed up for it.
Good efficiency. Can supply anywhere from 6lb to 15lb (s-trim) or more
depending on pulley size, without super heating the air. You might think
that you'll get more boost simply by spinning it faster, up to max impeller
speed but once you go beyond a compressor's efficiency level you'll just
heat up the air (hello detonation!). Down sides are punching hole in pan for
drain (warranty?) and noise at idle. The boost will start building around 2
to 2.5k and go up from there. This is good for you drag strip guys.
Powerdyne - the guy who started this company used to work at Vortech. Easy
to install. The second time I installed one it took 2.5 hours. Quiet
compared to a Vortech. I had a BD-10 and it lasted 17k miles before the
internal belt broke. It was out of warranty so it cost $550 to rebuilt.
Some people have NO problems at all with the BD-10 while others had problems
even with the newer spec BD-11. I think they just came out with the BD-12.
Are they taking after Microsoft? Sure way to kill any blower is to overspin
it but powerdynes are especially prone to this. They claimed that the sealed
unit will run cooler than a oil-lubed unit. It's true to some extent but
magazines have tested Powerdyne and Vortech side by side and measured the
air charge temp per # of boost. The Vortech's air charge was only slightly
warmer but the boost continue to climb while the powerdyne stopped at a
certain level. Powedyne only need a 6-rib pulley. If you even spin one by
hand you'll know why. I think it's because of the smaller compressor wheel.
Regardless of what you choose you'll need to be able to supply and control
fuel and timing. The guys with centrifugal blowers like to advance the
timing low in the rpm range and dial it back as the boost builds. This give
you the most power without detonating.
OK. My fingers are tired but I'll be glad to answer some questions based on
my experience. Sad to say I might be off this list soon so I want to
contribute to it as much as I got from it. Thanks.
AKM
'98 Dakota R/T
'89 Mustang GT (347,Vortech S-trim, intercooler, Griggs GR-40, ...)
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